Wandering the streets of Gion, the narrow streets and side alleys ways were inviting in their subdued orange glow – igniting a well-known district in a layer of mystery. Blood-red lanterns with their pretty dove patterns marked out traditional teahouses, restaurants buzzed with the low hum of customers and the laughter of businessmen echoed in the secretive air, which whispered nothing except curiosity in a place where you wandered slowly and paused only in hope of a sighting, before moving on.
“Look behind you, now” I heard, as I was leisurely photographing the old wooden houses which stand as a preservation of the old Japan. I longed to see what was behind them, and what tales they could tell.
And there she was.
The brief eye contact through the delicate face of white; the elaborate design and bold colour of the robe which moved only in time with the elegance of the small, rapid steps; the clear sound of the wooden shoes hitting the cobbled stones in a composed rhythm. In the electric atmosphere, I was transfixed as I eagerly followed, mesmerised by a figure whose company is only for the invited.
I scrambled with my camera settings, knowing I only had a matter of seconds to capture my childhood dream of seeing such a respected figure in person as the door opened and the sound of the raucous crowd emerged. Before realising what was happening, and snapping out of awe, the door slammed shut and the sound of company was muted.
And she was gone…
Kyoto – a place identified not only with the ‘old’ Japan and UNESCO World Heritage temples, but also with the most beautiful and revered entertainer of all – the Geisha.
A Centuries old form of entertainment, Geisha and Maiko (the apprentice Geisha) are performing artists in Japan held to high esteem – female entertainers who are not only hostesses, but also classical musicians and dancers. Some begin their daily training at a very early age, whilst others choose to enter the profession later in life. Either way, you train for life, unless you leave your Okiya – the place where you live, train and are indebted to under contract.
Hired to attend parties and private gatherings at ochaya (teahouses) and ryōtei (traditional Japanese restaurants), no one knows where a Geisha will be called to work and the exclusivity of their company means they are not a common sight. Not only do you have to pay the equivalent of hundreds or even thousands of dollars but, in many cases, you must be invited by another person. Therefore, to behold one within the old streets of the ‘Geisha District’ of Gion in Kyoto, as they make their way to work, is a very special sight indeed.
I’ve been obsessed with visiting Gion since my early teens after reading Memoirs of Geisha, more than once. It was a world and culture I could only imagine and, at such as young age, Japan was a far away land that I could only dream about. As much as I loved Tokyo, I was more excited about Kyoto, and one of the first things I asked when I arrived at my hostel was: “Where can I see Geisha?” They will, of course, tell you what they know.
Seeing Geisha in the district of Gion is not guaranteed and if you are successful with a sighting, it will most likely be that of a Maiko. As many local people told me: “you have to be very lucky to see a Maiko, and even more so to see Geisha” and that’s really what it is.
My first attempt was to try in the early evening after 8pm, where I wandered for approximately one hour and a half with no result. I covered a lot of land and there was no hint of an appearance. On the second night I asked fellow bloggers Kate and Mario, who had just arrived in Kyoto that day, if they would like to go ‘Geisha Spotting’ as I liked to call it, and they were more than happy to join in, this time concentrating on one main street next to the river after 10pm.
Typically it happened when we were not paying attention, and just as I had heard from other people’s’ tales, it happens so quickly, as if you have seen a ghost. Despite walking with small and dainty steps, they are quick – they know that everyone wants a glimpse of them. If you think you can stop one to ask for a photo with them, think again. I’ve heard of that happen ONCE. The Geisha will be out of your sight before you’ve even had the chance to adjust you camera settings and pick your jaw up off the floor.
But you will never forget the moment.
Top Tips on how you can see a Geisha in Kyoto…
What is the Best Time to Spot a Maiko or Geisha?
I was told that Geisha and Maiko can start work from as early as 8pm, although the general consensus was that anywhere from 10pm – 11pm would give you a higher chance of an appearance.
Where is the Best Area of Gion to See Geisha?
Gion is now a mish-mash of old narrow alleyways and a modern shopping district with a whole host of department stores. Two areas remain the main hubs where the Geisha are called to work – the narrow and mysterious lantern lit street of Pontocho-dori to the west of the river and Hanamikoll-dori on the opposite side, near to the beautifully preserved Shimbashi Street. The main sightings are of them getting out of a taxi or walking the short way directly to the teahouse.
I was also informed that the small temples and shrines in this area are where the majority of Geisha go to pray before work and many have been spotted here in full make-up and outfit.
Linger in One Spot
Stand for 20 minutes, wander within a small perimeter of the street and be patient. It may just happen, especially if you can sense an atmosphere.
Don’t Overlook the Cracks in the Walls
Listen and peer into the cracks of the doors down the small, off the path alleyways – you never know what night be on the other side. One reader told me that’s how she got lucky with her Geisha spotting.
Go to a Maiko Tourist Performance
The Miyako Odori host daily dance performances by Maiko for around 11,000 yen (around £80). Pricey, but I preferred being on the look out to see them in their natural setting.
Know the Difference Between a Giesha and a Maiko
Geisha normally have more subdued and less elaborate clothing, hair and makeup, whereas Maiko are more colourful and bold – the robe is usually patterned, hangs low at the nape of the neck and the obi (the waist tie decoration) is normally more embellished and long, sometimes hanging as low as the ankles. They are striking and not easy missed. I even saw one from the back during the day in a local neighbourhood, except when she turned around she had no makeup on. Fail.
When Am I Most Unlikely to See One?
During Obon, the annual Buddhist event for commemorating one’s ancestors, Geisha and Maiko do not work. Therefore, travel to Gion during these dates means Geisha spotting is a potential failure. Obon is an annual Buddhist event for commemorating one’s ancestors via the lighting of lanterns and normally takes place in mid-August in Japan. It’s best to check with your guesthouse owners and other locals if any other festival or commemorative event else is taking place while you are there.
Seeing a Geisha, or in this case a Maiko, really made my time in Kyoto. Not only was it a dream come true, but the electric atmosphere the Maiko’s presence created was something that will stay with me always.
Brilliant tips Becki. Wow must have been so exciting, wow!
Memoirs of a Geisha is one of my favourite books (and films).
Very jealous! 🙂 x
Thank you – sourced from the locals. Can you tell I asked LOTS of questions?
So jealous! I also read Memoirs of a geisha a million times and fell in love with the geisha world.
If I ever make it to Kyoto I hope to be as lucky as you!
Funny how all us ladies feel the same about that book! I hope you are lucky too 🙂
I read Memoirs of a Geisha as well and loved the book but I didn’t realize that geisha are still practicing or that it is a tourist attraction. It’s interesting the way that you describe capturing this photo, as if the geisha were an animal and you were on a safari. Is that how geisha and maiko are treated within Japanese society as well?
Geisha are still practicing, although pre-war and post-war times have a lot of differences. I disagree that my description is ‘safari’ like and in Japanese society only the richest and most well-connected have the pleasure of their company. Everyone else can only… imagine.
I caught a quick glimpse of a Geisha when I was in Kyoto – or at least, I think I did. Some of my Japanese friends told me afterwards that there are a lot of places around Kyoto where Japanese women can pay to be dressed-up as a Geisha and then walk around Gion, as part of their Kyoto touring experience. So sometimes when tourists see a Geisha, it’s actually just a Japanese tourist in costume. I like to think it was a real Geisha, though :).
I’ve heard the same thing – although it’s a very expensive dress-up! Over 13,000 Yen! Yikes! I heard that you can tell the difference by ‘how they act’ – but that’s a whole different thing altogether that my skills do not reach too. Although one local described it to me as ‘the students silly and laugh. Maiko will not look at you, very quick’. Something along those lines. The mystery deepens…
Yay, you have finally seen one. I love that book and nearly studied Japanese as a result of it actually. If I ever make it to Kyoto I will definitely be on the hunt too!
That book really had an impact on our generation, didn’t it? I remember there being free Japanese lessons offered in my first year at Uni for some reason butI never thought to take them. Major fail now!
What a beautiful post Becki (and really helpful!). There’s just something magical about Geishes isn’t there?It’s that elegance and quietness combined with mystery. What a wonderful experience to have.
Very magical – your description is spot on!
When we were in Kyoto last year, I made my husband go to Gion on something of a whim as neither of us were particularly on fire to see geisha, but then again, we figured since we were there, we might as well give it a shot and see what happened. We wound up being taken under the wing of a retired Japanese couple who visit Gion every single day and the male half of the couple actually knew all of the geiko and maiko by name. He took us to all the spots where the girls go and had them stop and pose prettily for us so that we wouldn’t take “horrible paparazi” (his words!) shots. It was a really magical evening, not just because of all these beautiful women who looked like they were from another planet, but because of the wonderful evening we got to spend with the locals!
That’s incredible… and what a wonderful experience. I do wonder how the guy know them ALL though!
Great Article! Thanks for the advice.
I want to take pictures with them but I guess it’ll be hard. I think even a glimpse is impossible, I’d take your tips and I wish I can spot one!
It’s all about luck and if you are subtle, it’s fine. I met a girl who managed to get a quick photo WITH the Maiko and then the taxi driver told them to leave. That WAS lucky!
I just came across your site while doing research about Myanmar. I love your stories! I live in Japan and recently took a weekend trip to Kyoto. Another thing to add to your list is that at the beginning of November there is an event called the “Gion Odori” where Geisha and Maiko perform traditional dance for the public. The tickets were inexpensive (4,000￥) and included a quick tea ceremony led by a Geisha. My friend and I snuck around the back of the theater after the performance and were able to take photos with some of the Maiko. Definitely one of my best experiences in Japan! (I’ve heard there is a similar dance performance at the beginning of Spring in March!)
GREAT tip – thanks for sharing with other readers. You lucky thing – I bet that was a great experience!
Great article! I have almost the exact picture of that same Geisha (or is she a Maiko?). Such a cool experience!
Indeed a Maiko – who have similar patterns and colours of kimono and various other appearance factors which mark them put as ‘apprentices’. It was a very, very cool experience indeed!
Hi. My fiancée and I are on Kyoto now past several days. I have been telling her my interest to see real Geisha. Last night, while riding our rental bikes by the river in Gion, she calls out to me come, come quickly….I turn around race up the alleyway street and low and behold 3 geisha or apprentice? all walking toward same location. My fiancée speaks Japanese and this was first experience in Japan to observe unfriendly attitude from a Japanese person. She asked her kindly to take a photo and barely a response or eye contact.. We didn’t want to be paparazzi so in a moment they were out of sight. We snapped one photo from the rear. Was a very magical experience and I loved Kyoto most of all places we have traveled on JP.
As much as we all want to be photographed with one, the best and most magical of moments are fleeting. I love the mystery of the geisha and thank you for sharing your story here!
I am hoping to spot a geisha when I head to Kyoto next month (I like the term geisha hunting) – Memoirs of a geisha is my inspiration too. Thanks for the tips ^_^
My husband and I just spotted 8 of them last night – many Maikos and 1 or possibly 2 of them were geikos, and this was on Obon (August 15th). So, it;s definitely possible during that time It was a very quiet side street in Gion near the river and we got incredibly lucky, basically the jackpot of Geisha hunting.There were only 2 other couples walking down those same streets over the 45 minutes or so that we were there.
Got a lot of blurry photos (they are quick) but some incredible video as well (one of them went to great lengths to NOT be photographed) totally felt like TMZ! I laughed reading how you scrambled to take the photo – exact same experience for me too. I even thought I was recording one getting out a taxi and going into a house, but no, apparently not. Going to go out again tonight to see if we can stretch our luck.
They are truly a sight to behold and one of our favorite memories from Japan!
I’m not here to burst a bubble at all but… It’s well documented that they do not work at all during Obon.
It is very difficult to quickly determine ‘real’ from those who pay up to $400 to dress up. I guess it’s all a part of the fun and mystery of Gion.
I have to say I find your account quite disturbing. If someone is going to great lengths NOT to be photographed, we, as travellers, should respect that. These are people, not animals and the same rules of respect should apply.
I would have to say you are overreacting a little. If you ask locals, which we did, they inform you that people can politely take photos, as long as they are not with clients (which is the huge no-no) and you are not shoving cameras in their faces (which I never saw anyone do). It’s not a paparazzi scene and photos are taken at a fair distance.
I guess we were very lucky. We decided to stroll around the geisha neighbourhood on our last night in kyoto. It was between 8:30-9pm. Not 1 got out of taxi, but in a matter of seconds, 7 got out of different taxis and ran into establishment nearby. Two of them got out of a taxi right in front of us!! We were so surprised and giggling like school girls. Still can’t believe it… wow. It really is amazing.
if somebody could believe.. i saw today 7 geishas… yes it was geishas.. first time in my life..and such a lucky visit… in first time i saw 4..and later one 1..1..1 . this all girls went to same building near main road…and aftwr 2 minutes one man came of and told is to clear area..because alot photographers start comming to this place
Beautifully written piece. Just arrived in Kyoto so lets see how I go…!