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I knew Japan was a country that still held on to many of its traditions, despite its rapid growth as a very modern nation. It’s one of the reasons I have always wanted to come here – to seek out pockets of the old, ‘real’ Japan. The experience of staying in a Ryokan – a traditional Japanese style house or ‘inn’ whose concept dates back to the Edo period from the early 1600s to the late 1800’s – came under that aspiration.
I got the opportunity to be a guest at the beautiful Homeikan for six days – said to be one of the oldest Ryokan in the whole of Japan.
I couldn’t have asked for a more traditional introduction.
Inside a Japanese Ryokan
With three houses to choose from, Homeikan feels worlds away from the bright lights and bustle of Tokyo, tucked away in a quiet, local area close by to the well-known area of Uneo. I tried out two of the houses – Honken and Daimachi Bekkan – and both rooms were like living in an immaculate micro-apartment complete with TV, fridge, telephone, a seating area with a tea set, and a futon style bed (which is laid out for you in the early evening or whenever you request it).
Basic, yet beautiful, the rooms here typically consist of traditional Japanese wooden décor with sliding doors, a tatami-matted floor, a table and floor level chair or cushion and a space for your futon. In the Ryokan, bathing areas are communal (male and female separate) and consist of a handful of showers – to be taken while seated on the plastic stool provided – and a hot bathing pool to soak your aching limbs after sightseeing or a night out (these baths stay hot up to around 3 am).
Customs and Traditions of Staying in a Ryokan
The Japanese are polite, attentive and extremely welcoming and you will certainly feel that in a place like this. When I arrived, I was asked to remove my shoes and given the slippers I would wear inside the house. You must leave the slippers outside of your room and the bathroom before entering, as well as when you use the toilet – you have to use ANOTHER pair of slippers in there.
I was immediately asked if I would like my futon putting out (my tiredness from a hellish travel journey being very obvious) and a hot water flask quickly arrived for my tea. A beautiful round wooden box sat neatly on the table containing a traditional tea set of small cups and plates, a teapot, fresh tea leaves and a Japanese biscuit – all of which were refreshed daily.
When eating and drinking you sit on the floor, with the cushion provided; you may otherwise have a floor level wooden chair. This space also doubled as my ‘office’ and was more comfortable than it first looked.
Everything felt very ordered in the Japanese sense, but a few things took a bit of getting used to – mainly showering whilst sitting down on a tiny plastic stool and remembering to take off my slippers before entering my room – at first I would be found dashing out of the room immediately, worried that I would cause offence.
But one of the things I loved the most? Getting to wear a ‘yukata’ – which we know better by the generic name of kimono. It’s custom to wear this in the Ryokan when you are lounging indoors, especially after coming back for the day and after bathing.
In fact, when you arrive it is likely that you will be asked if you want to bathe and to change into your yukata. I couldn’t wait! The staff also love to treat you to a photoshoot after teaching you how to wear and tie it properly.
Ryokan in Japan: Price vs. Experience
Japan is a pricey country to travel in, compared to the rest of Asia, and Ryokan accommodations are known to be expensive compared to other standard forms of accommodation here. However, experiencing time-honoured traditions will certainly outweigh the cost of approximately $40-$50 / £45+ a night*, and it’s a great introduction to the cultural customs of Japanese living.
A stay at Ryokan should definitely be on your list – even if only for one night. You actually feel as though you are ‘living’ in Japan, returning to a relaxing home after a busy day out in the fast-paced incredible city of Tokyo.
A standard single room at Homeikan starts from £45 per night, a twin private from £76 and a three-bed private from £94. Some rooms can accommodate up to five people.
Rashaad says
I’ve spent some time in ryokans, and I definitely loved staying in them. One of the best meals I ever had in Japan was cooked by the wife of the ryokan owner. It was so delicious 🙂
Backpacker Becki says
They are a great experience. Bet it was amazing getting dinner too. I was always back too late for anything like that!
Beverley | Pack Your Passport says
The reason you wanted to go to Japan is exactly the same reason I’d love to go – I really want to experience the traditional rituals and culture of the ‘old Japan’ and staying here sounds like the perfect way to do that. It looks awesome! Also strikes me as a very calming and relaxing place to stay as an alternative to a bustling hostel? So glad you enjoyed it there Becki 🙂
Backpacker Becki says
It was REALLY relaxing. The only disturbance was one evening when two cats decided to have a fight outside. Other than that I had the best sleep I’ve had in a while – look at the futon duvet! Heaven!
Ele says
Unfortunately I haven’t been able to travel to Japan, which has been my dream country ever since my teen years. The cost of such trip has been keeping me away but I think it’s worth saving to allow real immersion into the culture and I’d love to stay in a ryokan while I’m there.
Backpacker Becki says
It’s super expensive but I would say, absolutely worth saving for. There is so much to see that it would mean many trips here to see it all. But if it’s a dream destination, make it happen. You won’t be disappointed 🙂
Monica says
This looks absolutely incredible. I love that little tea set!
Backpacker Becki says
That tea made me one VERY happy lady!
Roisin says
I love the idea of staying at a ryokan, seems like the perfect way to experience Japanese culture, and I would love to wear a yukada! 🙂
Backpacker Becki says
It was the best introduction, even just to learn about Japanese politeness!
Lisa Fox says
Just got back from Mongolia having studied your blog – living ger to ger with Nomadic families and 9 of us packed into a ger to sleep. Huge stars and late morning dips in the clear river and bonding over washing. I spent two years in Japan and you’ve found all the best bits… love it so much and still get to go back once a month, though not to travel… try Nikko in the snow and Hakuba on your next trip!
Backpacker Becki says
Wow, sounds like a fantastic Mongolian adventure! How long were you there for? Amazingly beautiful place isn’t it? Thanks for Japan tips. I am keen to come back here in a different season for sure… onsen in the snow and all that 🙂
Evelyn - Style Spy says
Oh wauw would love to sleep in a ryokan one day, looks lovely and Japan is high on the bucketlist!
Jazsdine Gaitos says
Hi, your site is very helpful, now, I am more than excited to visit Japan 🙂
And staying in Ryokan is on my list. I do have one question, is the traditional Japanese breakfast included here?
Thank you,
Jaz:)
Becki says
I didn’t take the breakfast option here, but should you wish to find out more information about the dinners and breakfasts, drop the owner a note – he gets back to people really quickly
Tiffy says
Hi Becki!
Thank you for sharing your ryokan experience! I’ve been to Japan 3x but always stayed in hotels. Looks like Homeikan is a great place to stay in Tokyo to soak in Japanese culture. Will try it out next time! 🙂
Tiffy
Joaquin del Paso says
Hi Becky! I am booking 3 nights at the Homeikan Ryokan and I have two options, one is through their website which costs around 150 dollars per night (for 2 people) including breakfast, or the option through hostelworld which costs around 100 dollars per night without breakfast. I understood that the rooms in the cheaper option are newer, and through their website you get to stay at the oldest building, but for me it all looks beautiful in the pictures, what do you recommend?
Becki says
It depends what you want to do. Personally I like the older style.