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Where was The Beach filmed? In the once pristine enclave of Maya Bay – a secluded beach cove close to Koh Phi Phi island in Thailand. Here’s how over-tourism caused its near four-year closure and what new measures are in place for Maya Bay’s reopening and long-term protection.
Visiting The Beach movie location may not be the paradise you think. It was initially closed in June-September 2018 to allow its coral reefs and environment to recover from over-tourism. Then, Thailand’s Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation announced in October that it would remain closed indefinitely to allow the beach and ecosystem to recover.
However, the most famous beach in Thailand reopened to the public on 1st January 2022, with new measures in place to protect it.
Imagine a stunning beach cove located 30 minutes away from a populated island. A cove whose crystal blue waters are almost glowing, the sand silky soft under your feet, the surrounding cliff faces beautifully dominant in a protective hug and where the surrounding choppy waters protect the enclave from human invaders.
Welcome to Maya Bay on Ko Phi Phi Leh, a pocket of paradise on the coastline of Koh Phi Phi Leh island – the smaller sister island of Thailand’s sun, surf and snorkel haven of Koh Phi Phi Don.
Boats used to line Maya Bay – The Beach movie set in Thailand. Not anymore.
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The Beach. Sounds Idyllic, Right?
Maya Bay found global fame as the film set for The Beach – a blockbuster screenplay based on Alex Garland’s novel of the same name. A story I, too, wanted to seek out as a traveller, despite knowing the consequences that its fame had brought.
“You fish, swim, eat, laze around, and everyone’s so friendly. It’s such simple stuff, but… If I could stop the world and restart life, put the clock back, I think I’d restart it like this. For everyone.” – Alex Garland, The Beach.
The Beach movie identified the joys of a secluded haven. In reality, the ‘beach from the beach’ became a victim of its fame, with the closing of Maya Bay in 2018 highlighting the imploding nature of over-tourism.
The magnificent and once-secluded Maya Bay at Koh Phi Phi Leh, Thailand
What Happened to Maya Bay?
Imagine over 200 boats and 5,000 people a day visiting Maya Bay and the consequences of the surge of interest and bad tourism practices. Coastline erosion and the destruction of coral reefs from boats docking and shoreline swimming.
All from a tourist drive that stemmed from a single question from most visitors to Koh Phi Phi: “Where’s the beach?”.
Before Maya Bay closed, over 200 boats and 5,000 people visited the famed beach daily.
Travel to Maya Bay was accessible via the advertised boat trips available to book on Koh Phi Phi. Half days trips to Koh Phi Phi Leh started from 400 Baht. All-day tours, which included a stop at “the beach from The Beach”, ranged from 700 Baht upwards.
It was incredible, yet ruined, spectacular but over-crowded; it was almost impossible to see Maya Bay in its natural state unless you were fortunate many years ago.
It was disappointing at the same time as expected, and a shame that tourist numbers were uncapped and uncontrolled back then.
The hundreds of boats that arrived at Maya Bay every day dropped off tourists who multiplied by the dozens as the wooden vessels floated in. An intense build-up of crowds would push past you in excited curiosity, as if they were expecting Leonardo DiCaprio to jump off the cliff ridge shouting, “I’ve found it!”. Except everyone had found it.
The emerald blue water no longer contained the sparkling mysteries of its submerged beauty but was flanked by a row of longboats floating idly. At the same time, the sands rapidly become covered with a scattering of feet, and the air fills with uncontrolled mayhem and the screams of boat captains.
Garbage and sunscreen polluted the water, destroying a huge part of the ecosystem that makes this area so naturally stunning.
Our boat to Maya Bay was too large to dock directly on the shoreline. Instead, we anchored a few meters further around the island, where we had to swim through the surge of waves to reach the spider-web of rope constructed to help pull ourselves in and up into this stunning hideaway.
Boat trips to Maya Bay cruising the emerald waters past rocky coves.
Some boats would dock on the other side of Maya Bay, where visitors would have to scramble to land.
Travellers swim to the hideout of Maya Bay, the Beach on Koh Phi Phi Leh island.
Those tranquil scenes from the Beach movie immediately shattered on dry land. I never expected to get lucky visiting Maya Bay in its untouched, immaculate form. Besides, I was just the same as every other tourist landing there, impacting the landscape with every trudge through the jungle and short swim in the sea.
Heavily marketed as a single trip or as a small part of an all-day boat cruise around the islands, the popularity of Maya Bay will never, ever dwindle. Especially now that Maya Bay’s reopening puts it firmly back on the sightseeing circuit.
Before Maya Bay reopened, there was little infrastructure to deal with the footfall of people passing through Koh Phi Phi Leh island to get to the beach.
Arriving at Maya Bay from the other side of the island.
Before Maya Bay closed for nearly four years, there was no limit on visitor numbers.
For many, the trip to Maya Bay was about trying hard to get their best snap on Thailand’s most famous beach. Many were completely unaware of where they were and what spectacle of nature they were standing in. This scenario, to me, was what summed up the Maya Bay setting perfectly. The chance to get that bucket list picture… and nothing else.
Overcrowding at Maya Bay and the destruction of the environment eventually led to its closure in 2018.
And when you found a moment where the coast was clear, you could stand there and imagine – if only for a few seconds – the pure, immaculate beauty this once was.
The shoreline of Maya Bay before 2018.
New Rules for the Reopening of Maya Bay
In three and a half years of closure, experts have had time to replant trees to help limit coastal erosion and replant coral to revive sea life in the waters. To avoid losing this revitalisation and reverting to the previous eco-disaster, new rules for Maya Bay visits have been imposed by local authorities to ensure the best environmental practice is in place for the coming tourist footfall.
- No more docking in the main cove. A jetty is now in place on the other side of the island and will now be the only docking area for boats, keeping the bay entirely clear.
- No open wandering on the island. A wooden walkway has been erected for tourists to get from the jetty to the bay with minimal environmental damage, including the protective white sands.
- No swimming will be allowed. This is to protect the reef and marine life.
- A cap on visitor numbers. Tourist numbers will finally be limited, taking daily arrival numbers down from the thousands to a couple of hundred. The number of boats allowed on site will also, therefore, be limited.
Getting to Maya Bay Today
Here are some of the current bookable boat trips on offer that take you around Koh Phi Phi Leh, which include a visit to Maya Bay.
Sunset Longtail Boat Tour – A full-day trip making 8 stops around the Phi Phi Islands. Snorkel in pristine waters, spot marine life, and enjoy the sights of Bamboo Island, Mosquito Island, and Monkey Beach before visiting Maya Bay.
Private Longtail Boat Charter – A half-day boat tour around the Phi Phi archipelago with more flexibility on how long you want to spend at the sights and on activities. Perfect for those travelling in a group.
Boat Tour From Phuket or Speedboat Tour From Krabi – Not staying in Koh Phi Phi? No problem. There are plenty of day trips from nearby islands, including Phuket and Krabi, that get you around the beaches, coves and famous bays and include a lunch stop on Phi Phi Don Island.
Here’s to a regenerative future for Maya Bay and the positive footprint we can make when we revisit Thailand’s world-famous beach.
As Maya Bay reopens, new rules are now in place, with responsible measures to regenerate the environment.
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READ MORE: Thailand Island Hopping Guide – Choosing the Best Islands to Visit
Audrey says
I booked an overnight boat tour to maya bay. When we first arrived at the beach around 3pm, the crowds were insane. Drunk tourists falling over everywhere. Boats zipping in and out. But then, around 6pm, all the tourists slowly left and we had the beach completely to ourselves. We frolicked for a bit before we ate our home cooked panang in the jungle, while drinking buckets and passing around a guitar. We slept on the boat, since you’re not supposed to stay on the beach, but we were the first people back in the morning. I would definitely recommend getting to this beach as early as possible and staying a bit later to see its real beauty. It was incredible.
Richard says
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I used to work in Asia and we went to Thailand regularly. We visited Phi Phi three times, before, during and after the film. First time was simply awesome, just me and my wife had the entire beach to ourselves for a couple of hours, even the boatman left us there and came back for us later. We decided to return with the kids during our next visit but couldn’t get on Phi Phi Lei because they were actually filming, we didn’t know what the film was at the time but the locals told us Leonardo was there. So, we returned the year after the film was released and of course it had become famous almost overnight. There must have been 40 people on the beach with us which did take away some of the charm, still significantly better than how it is today from the look of things. I know we were very lucky to have gone when we did, we had an amazing day, and even better evening there. I wouldn’t go back though, better to remember it how it was.
Tim Williams says
I have only been there once. In the early ’90s. Before the tsunami, before “the beach.” There were a few groups of bungalows spread around the island or you could stay in the fishing village at Ton Sai if it was too quiet for you. There were 2 small boats that ferried people from Krabbi to the island but only in good weather and that was about it. It truly was an unspoilt tropical paradise. I guess I was one of those that started to wreck it though………Sorry about that!
Becki says
We are all guilty of being tourists but I believe beautiful places like this should be seen and shared. I just wish they would limit the number of boats. I bet you have some amazing memories and photos of it from back then!
Alex Cardo says
Maya Bay is really a wonderful place. But it’s always too many people visiting this bay. I didn’t find a place to make a single shot like you. May be the problem was that I visited this place in a Chines New Year??? Do you think is there time in Thailand, when I could enjoy this magical place alone or couple or by group?
Becki says
But… you may get lucky too! Enjoy. It really is a stunning area.