Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to handpicked partners, including tours, gear and booking sites. If you click through or buy something via one of them, I may receive a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you and allows this site to keep running.
Tourists can now enter the former US Embassy in Tehran, dubbed the Den of Espionage. It’s now been turned into a museum.
It was once closed to the public, and tourists rarely got a look inside what is referred to as the US Den of Espionage in Iran’s capital, Tehran, with its sporadic opening times. While in Tehran in 2013, I managed to be allowed in. It was already a museum-like interior, although that wasn’t something I was expecting to see.
It’s not surprising that the Den of Espionage is now an official museum.
The former US Embassy in Tehran was always prominent. Its long, imposing walls were coated in colourful, provocative murals and slogans denouncing the USA. Travellers over the years might have seen slogans like the ‘Great Satan’ and ‘the most hated government in the world’ denouncing the US. This area provoked the fervency we see in the media, rendering the murals very exhibition-like and not to be taken at face value.
Because this is not reflective of how everyday Iranians think and feel now. It’s quite the opposite since Americans are welcome to visit and are not barred from tourism.
The old barbed wire anti-US murals have since been covered with new anti-American images, incorporating Mickey Mouse and McDonald’s symbols. The once blocked-off building is now an official museum, which sets out to showcase the history between Iran and the US and the pivotal day that completely severed diplomatic ties between the two countries, propelling the construction of modern-day Iran.
Contents
History of the US Den of Espionage
On November 4, 1979, militant students supporting the Iranian Revolution leader, Ayatollah Khomeini, stormed and seized the US embassy, claiming the US was orchestrating a CIA plot to undermine the Revolution, especially with its continued support of and asylum granted to the then overthrown (Royal) Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi.
This day sparked an international crisis that saw 52 Americans held hostage for 444 days. The US broke off all diplomatic relations following the release of all hostages, but they have never been restored since.
The Former US Embassy in Tehran – What it Means Today
Before it formally became a museum, the Iranian government dubbed “US Den of Espionage” became the home to hardline defenders of the Revolution and was used as a training ground for the Revolutionary Guards and a stage for anti-US demonstrations.
It was one of the most coveted buildings in all of Iran. Heavily guarded and concealed, it is said tourists were often told to leave the area, despite the somewhat crass murals of the skull-head statue of liberty, American flags covered with weapons and barbed wire, and anti-Israel messaging drawing the eager eye. Even a ‘Down With USA’ mural would greet all who entered and exited the metro station.
On the surface, the images confirm the country’s anti-US sentiments that we often hear about in Western media; in reality, you’ll soon find them conflicting with the aspirations and outlook of today’s open-minded generation.
Inside the building, the sentiment of that day continues with a ‘museum’ depicting the stages of the Iranian Hostage Crisis and a showcase of further artwork alongside machinery, documents and other evidence found inside during the takeover.
Visiting The Den of Espionage Museum in Tehran
Where you could once approach the gate staff and pay around 1 million Rial ($40) for entry, today, entry to the Den of Espionage Museum ticket costs 300.000 Rial ($7).
History On Show
Reconstructions of soundproof dens, spying equipment and machinery, alongside the pieced-together shredded documents that the hostages frantically tried to destroy during the takeover (which have since been turned into books), make up this exhibit.
Should you Visit the Den of Espionage?
The “US Den of Espionage” is a significant element of the constriction of the Iranian regime’s psyche, and even just a glimpse at the murals is essential in trying to understand the components that make up modern-day Iran and some of the ‘political’ components that exist that are in no way reflective of the general population.
More importantly, one should visit to make an informed decision about the situation while observing that the local people who walk past pay no attention.
Things to Know About Visiting the Former US Embassy in Tehran
- The Den of Espionage Museum is open daily from 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM – 5:00 PM.
- The ticket entry cost is 300.000 Rial ($7).
- An easy-to-digest timeline of events of the ‘Iranian Hostage Crisis’ can be found here.
- Read more about travelling in Iran and the best places to visit in Iran in my detailed guides.
Wai says
Amazing story. I was there, but did not go inside. You are certainly brave as I was hesitant to even take photos outside. However I guess that is part of the whole misconception about travelling in Iran.
Becki says
Indeed. The most interesting thing to note is that, despite the murals, people pass by it without a care for it. It’s a significant part of the country’s history, but not something that necessarily defines the sentiment of the people today.
omid says
such a nice post. I’d love the way you looked into the building. coz although I’ve born and raised in tehran, I was never keen of visiting there, makes me disappointed.
these days I see more and more US citizens as tourists at ease.
we are in the middle of a new change.
Gerald Bruce-Smith says
Great post, Becki.
I was in Iran late September 2014 for a tour, and really enjoyed it. I had no problems wandering solo around Tehran – most friends don’t believe that the street and highway signs are in English and Farsi
Esfahan, its palaces and mosques…..what can one say but magnificent.
I truly hope the sanctions etc get sorted out, and am glad my country – NZ – is now on the UN Security Council.
Becki says
I agree, it’s not a difficult place to get around and the metro is great!
Mike Mills says
Great pictures. I attended Tehran American School 70-75. I have only pleasant memories. Having reconnected with many friends online that stayed longer, I have heard some harrowing stories. I miss Iran deeply. I hope to visit soon.
Justine says
I have been wanting to visit Tehran for so long. One of my good friends grew up in Iran and visits every year. I’ve always heard such great things and I think it would be a fascinating place to visit! All of the anti-America propaganda reminds me so much of Cuba. The have very similar street art and billboards set up around the country that viciously denounce the US. They actually have billboards surrounding the old US embassy in Havana that are super critical of the US and they are pretty intense. Anyway, this sort of stuff fascinates me to no end. I would love to see this emabassy for myself. Great post!
Becki says
The murals across the city are super creative and, in an artistic sense, it would be a shame to see them removed. However, any remaining works with strong anti-US sentiment are only going to push the diplomatic process back, since they are old-thought. Hopefully they will find a balance.They could be seen as a form of cultural heritage but the longer they are there the more confusing the messaging is (although these are all concentrated in one place). This is essentially government artwork, not public artwork made by the people. Tough one.
Andrea says
Everything I’ve read about Iran makes me desperate to visit but I can’t stand the thought of having to travel with a group. I think I’ll have to wait until they (hopefully) change the visa rules again. My Iranian friends keep warning me against visiting as they think it’s dangerous and I shouldn’t be supporting the regime but I can’t resist wanting to see what’s going on for myself.
Becki says
I’m not a big group fan either, but it does have it pros over the cons in places like this. However, I too am hoping for visa changes and applying for my Irish passport to prevent such issues. I never felt in danger here and as for supporting the regime, while it is inevitable that your money is going that way, we have to support the local people who are not representative of their government. I always have that in mind when travelling to these controversial places.
Brenna says
Whoa – really eye-opening photographs. Great reporting here Becki!