Inside The Den of Espionage – Former US Embassy in Tehran Turned Museum

Tourists can now enter the former US Embassy in Tehran, dubbed the Den of Espionage. It’s now been turned into a museum.

It was once closed to the public, and tourists rarely got a look inside what is referred to as the US Den of Espionage in Iran’s capital, Tehran, with its sporadic opening times. While in Tehran in 2013, I managed to be allowed in. It was already a museum-like interior, although that wasn’t something I was expecting to see.

It’s not surprising that the Den of Espionage is now an official museum. 

The former US Embassy in Tehran was always prominent. Its long, imposing walls were coated in colourful, provocative murals and slogans denouncing the USA. Travellers over the years might have seen slogans like the ‘Great Satan’ and ‘the most hated government in the world’ denouncing the US. This area provoked the fervency we see in the media, rendering the murals very exhibition-like and not to be taken at face value.

Because this is not reflective of how everyday Iranians think and feel now. It’s quite the opposite since Americans are welcome to visit and are not barred from tourism.

The old barbed wire anti-US murals have since been covered with new anti-American images, incorporating Mickey Mouse and McDonald’s symbols. The once blocked-off building is now an official museum, which sets out to showcase the history between Iran and the US and the pivotal day that completely severed diplomatic ties between the two countries, propelling the construction of modern-day Iran.

History of the US Den of Espionage

On November 4, 1979, militant students supporting the Iranian Revolution leader, Ayatollah Khomeini, stormed and seized the US embassy, claiming the US was orchestrating a CIA plot to undermine the Revolution, especially with its continued support of and asylum granted to the then overthrown (Royal) Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi.

This day sparked an international crisis that saw 52 Americans held hostage for 444 days. The US broke off all diplomatic relations following the release of all hostages, but they have never been restored since.

The Former US Embassy in Tehran – What it Means Today

Before it formally became a museum, the Iranian government dubbed “US Den of Espionage” became the home to hardline defenders of the Revolution and was used as a training ground for the Revolutionary Guards and a stage for anti-US demonstrations.

It was one of the most coveted buildings in all of Iran. Heavily guarded and concealed, it is said tourists were often told to leave the area, despite the somewhat crass murals of the skull-head statue of liberty, American flags covered with weapons and barbed wire, and anti-Israel messaging drawing the eager eye. Even a ‘Down With USA’ mural would greet all who entered and exited the metro station.

On the surface, the images confirm the country’s anti-US sentiments that we often hear about in Western media; in reality, you’ll soon find them conflicting with the aspirations and outlook of today’s open-minded generation.

Inside the building, the sentiment of that day continues with a ‘museum’ depicting the stages of the Iranian Hostage Crisis and a showcase of further artwork alongside machinery, documents and other evidence found inside during the takeover.

Visiting The Den of Espionage Museum in Tehran 

Where you could once approach the gate staff and pay around 1 million Rial ($40) for entry, today, entry to the Den of Espionage Museum ticket costs 300.000 Rial ($7).

History On Show

Reconstructions of soundproof dens, spying equipment and machinery, alongside the pieced-together shredded documents that the hostages frantically tried to destroy during the takeover (which have since been turned into books), make up this exhibit. 

Should you Visit the Den of Espionage?

The “US Den of Espionage” is a significant element of the constriction of the Iranian regime’s psyche, and even just a glimpse at the murals is essential in trying to understand the components that make up modern-day Iran and some of the ‘political’ components that exist that are in no way reflective of the general population. 

More importantly, one should visit to make an informed decision about the situation while observing that the local people who walk past pay no attention.

Things to Know About Visiting the Former US Embassy in Tehran

• The Den of Espionage Museum is open daily from 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM – 5:00 PM.
  • The ticket entry cost is 300.000 Rial ($7).
• An easy-to-digest timeline of events of the ‘Iranian Hostage Crisis’ can be found here.
• Read more about travelling in Iran and the best places to visit in Iran in my detailed guides.