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Not open to the public, tourists rarely get inside the US Den of Espionage in Iran’s capital, Tehran with its sporadic opening times. One random Saturday in September, I did, and the museum-like interior wasn’t something I was expecting to see. The former US Embassy in Tehran is not hard to miss; its long and imposing walls are coated in colourful, provocative murals and slogans denouncing the USA as the ‘Great Satan’ and ‘the most hated government in the world’.
Yet this is in no way reflective of how everyday Iranians think and feel; quite the opposite since Americans are welcomed. This area provokes the fervency we see in the media, rendering this area and its murals very exhibition-like, and not to be taken at face value.
Today, this mysterious building is a magnet for tourists eager to photograph and peer over its walls, trying to envisage the historical day that completely severed diplomatic ties between the two countries, and which further propelled the construction of modern-day Iran.
On November 4, 1979, militant students supporting the Iranian Revolution leader, Ayatollah Khomeini, stormed and seized the US embassy, claiming the US was orchestrating a CIA plot to undermine the Revolution, especially with its continued support of and asylum granted to the then overthrown (Royal) Shah of Iran, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi.
This day sparked an international crisis that saw 52 Americans held hostage for 444 days. The US broke off all diplomatic relations following the release of all hostages, but they have never been restored since.
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The Former US Embassy in Tehran – What it Means Today
The Iranian government dubbed “US Den of Espionage” is now home to hardline defenders of the Revolution – the Sepah militia – and is used as a training ground for the Revolutionary Guards and a stage for anti-US demonstrations.
Heavily guarded and concealed, it is said tourists are often told to leave the area (I never was), yet the murals of the skull-head statue of liberty, American flags covered with weapons and barbed wire, and anti-Israel messaging are all too fascinating. Walk along a bit further and you will find the ‘Down With USA’ mural that greets all who enter and exit the metro station.
On the surface, the images confirm the country’s anti-US sentiments that we often hear about in Western media; in reality you’ll soon find them conflicting with the aspirations and outlook of today’s open-minded generation.
Inside the building, the sentiment of that day continues with a ‘museum’ depicting the stages of the ‘Iranian Hostage Crisis’ and a showcase of further artwork, alongside machinery, documents and other evidence found inside during the takeover.
How to Get Inside the Den of Espionage in Tehran
When I first visited the ‘Den’ during the Tehran segment of my Iran tour, every person in the group wanted to visit, hoping our Persian guide would help us gain entry. Rumour has it that it’s only open for a few days in the first two weeks of February, yet the man at the gate told her that they would be letting people in that coming Saturday. But with the tour ending by then, and my guide no longer around to ease the process, it seemed like a futile prospect.
Despite having to be on a guided tour because I held a British passport, I had two days afterwards to explore Tehran independently – moving independently around the country as a Brit isn’t permitted.
Approaching the gate with another traveller friend in tow, I asked about entry only to be told it wasn’t possible. My reasoning about my guide’s earlier conversation was still met with strong dismissal. I continued to plead that I was told to come back on this day armed with cash. It was still a no. Just with a continued persuasive calmness and a dash of cheeky determination, we eventually settled on a deal that set us back nearly 1 million Rial ($40).
We didn’t know what the real role our ‘guide’ played there, but our hearts were racing knowing we were finally about to enter one of the most coveted buildings in all of Iran.
Espionage and Vengeance On Show
From reconstructions of soundproof dens, spying equipment and machinery, alongside the pieced together shredded documents which the hostages frantically tried to destroy during the takeover (which have since been turned into books), this place was as shocking as imagined.
I think even I would have been anti-US if I found this labyrinth of a spy network.
Should you Visit the Den of Espionage?
The “US Den of Espionage” is a significant element of the constriction of the Iranian regime’s psyche and while there is no guarantee of entry, even just a glimpse at the murals is essential in trying to understand the components that make up modern-day Iran and some of the ‘political’ components that exist that are in no way reflective of the general population.
More importantly, one should visit to make up their own mind about the situation, while observing that the local people who walk past and simply pay no attention at all.
Things to Know About Visiting the Former US Embassy in Tehran:
- Gaining entry is purely about luck and good timing. Rarely open to the public, local people and hotel workers will give you differing stories. It is said to only be officially open from 1 to 10 February each year
- While I don’t condone parting with cash that goes straight to the militia group supporting the revolution, this sadly appears to be the only way in. An unofficial entry fee, we were informed that those on National Service work here also. Whether they see any of those funds is unknown
- At the time of visiting, it was said that plans were in place for the removal of all anti-US murals across the capital within a matter of months. Pressure mounts for moderate President Rouhani, who is seen to be paving the way for more open political relations, especially in light of the current tensions over Iran’s nuclear programmes
- An easy to digest timeline of events of the ‘Iranian Hostage Crisis’ can be found here.
Rachel says
wow!!! amazing post and so informative. I knew there were anti US sentiments of course, but didn’t realize how OPEN they were about it with the graffiti. In the same sense, I realize Americans can be anti-iran or anti-muslim, but I haven’t seen something so blatant in the US (then again I haven’t spent much time in the US in a couple years). Would love to learn more about this.
Becki says
This is effectively ‘governmental’ graffiti and so it really is a bit blatant and over the top. This incident really paved the way for a strong political anti-American agenda, but at the same time the US is placing a lots of rules and sanctions of Iran also. It’s like watching a playground fight and this artwork is just a part of that.
Christine says
Thanks for sharing this Becki, I’m absolutely DYING to get inside that building. I find the Iran – US relations at that time fascinating. I didn’t realise it was so difficult to get inside though. I hope I make it there before it’s changed.
This is my favourite blog post I’ve read in a long time! 🙂
Becki says
It’s one of the more complex and fascinating political relationships, for sure. How it can and will change will be interesting to watch, especially since many Iranians of today’s generation are keen to study and live over there and are welcoming to US visitors.
Inverted Sheep says
What great photos! I’ve never seen pics of the inside before and didn’t realise it was EVER possible to get in. Iran fascinates me and I would love to visit. I kind of hope they don’t get rid of the murals as they’re now part of the cultural heritage of Tehran.
Becki says
The murals across the city are super creative and, in an artistic sense, it would be a shame to see them removed. However, any remaining works with strong anti-US sentiment are only going to push the diplomatic process back, since they are old-thought. Hopefully they will find a balance.They could be seen as a form of cultural heritage but the longer they are there the more confusing the messaging is (although these are all concentrated in one place). This is essentially government artwork, not public artwork made by the people. Tough one.
Natalie Deduck says
That´s is great post!
Felt so excited while reading, like if I was following you through the building. It´s so good to have different stories to read, especially from a such closed country.
Congrats!
Nat
Becki says
Hopefully not so closed for much longer. Times are changing and eventually, the sentiments of the people wanting change will hopefully be met, to some degree.
Brenna says
Whoa – really eye-opening photographs. Great reporting here Becki!
Becki says
Thank you! It’s fun reporting on these different things.
Andrea says
Everything I’ve read about Iran makes me desperate to visit but I can’t stand the thought of having to travel with a group. I think I’ll have to wait until they (hopefully) change the visa rules again. My Iranian friends keep warning me against visiting as they think it’s dangerous and I shouldn’t be supporting the regime but I can’t resist wanting to see what’s going on for myself.
Becki says
I’m not a big group fan either, but it does have it pros over the cons in places like this. However, I too am hoping for visa changes and applying for my Irish passport to prevent such issues. I never felt in danger here and as for supporting the regime, while it is inevitable that your money is going that way, we have to support the local people who are not representative of their government. I always have that in mind when travelling to these controversial places.
Charles McCool says
That looks so interesting. Excellent photo post.
Justine says
I have been wanting to visit Tehran for so long. One of my good friends grew up in Iran and visits every year. I’ve always heard such great things and I think it would be a fascinating place to visit! All of the anti-America propaganda reminds me so much of Cuba. The have very similar street art and billboards set up around the country that viciously denounce the US. They actually have billboards surrounding the old US embassy in Havana that are super critical of the US and they are pretty intense. Anyway, this sort of stuff fascinates me to no end. I would love to see this emabassy for myself. Great post!
Becki says
I have yet to go to Cuba but am dying to get there soon! Sounds just as fascinating, although maybe with the new lifting of the US embargo, those murals will soon be gone also.
Mike Mills says
Great pictures. I attended Tehran American School 70-75. I have only pleasant memories. Having reconnected with many friends online that stayed longer, I have heard some harrowing stories. I miss Iran deeply. I hope to visit soon.
Becki says
I’d love to hear your stories when you do return one day. Great you have fond and positive memories. I met people who were always visiting family or people at the airport who had returned for the first time since leaving many years ago, and they had nothing but positive things to say… just as us visitors did also.
Jaime says
Hey Becki,
In the 2 weeks we were in Iran, we met the friendliest people on earth and the hospitality was like no where else – you said that yourself when we were there. The trip was very much ‘expect the unexpected’ and Iranian people managed to break all preconceptions we had of them.
However, the locals we met were acutely aware of what the ‘outside’ world thought of them and they all wanted to change that. Our tour guide (to other readers – yes, I was on the same tour as Becki) was reluctant to take us to the US Embassy because it showed a side of Iranian society that the vast majority of locals wanted to forget and didn’t feel represented them at all.
In your other post about Iran you wrote ‘Travel to Iran remembering that the people are not always representative of their government’ – which implies you understand that the locals didn’t want a side of Tehran/Iran shown to the outside world, a side they are trying desperately to overcome and aren’t hugely proud of. Yet you’ve written a whole blog on it here and showed photos of hatred towards the US as if they are a common appearance in Iran. Scrolling through this blog gives a complete misrepresentation of the attitude Iranians have of the US and the outside world. This blog takes the easy angle and shows what people are expecting of Iran, not what it is really like.
Although the photography is great, the reporting is really disappointing and quite honestly unoriginal, and I hope others reading this realise the US embassy and its graffiti do not represent the country as it is today.
Becki says
I disagree, this reports on a situation that shaped what Iran has become today. I’ve even mentioned in the text that what is portrayed here is firstly a museum and in contrast to what the people today think today. As I quote, the ‘open minded’ generation. I also added at the end that people ‘simply take no notice at all’ and that the murals are planned to be removed.
I never once said this represented the mindset of the Iranian people today, and if you read it, I talk about this being the space for the government militia and supporters of the revolution. Not the space of those living under the regime. This is all in context of a key historical event and the sentiment that resulted from that.
So, please read it again since you haven’t picked that up already, especially this particular part: “On the surface, the images confirm the country’s anti-US sentiments that we often hear about in Western media; IN REALITY you’ll soon find them conflicting with the aspirations and outlook of today’s open-minded generation.”
While I am open to feedback and love debate, I do appreciate the understanding of context. If people wish to skim read, or not read, and only look at the images, I am not accountable for their ‘assumptions’ as to what it means.
At the end of the day, this place exists, and it’s a part of the modern history of the country. I had two Iranians try and get me in via contacts and phone calls. They are not trying to hide it at all – more use it as a means of highlighting exactly where this anti-sentiment came from.
Pedro @travelwithpedro says
Great post and pictures! I walked past these walls, but didn’t even dream of trying to get in. It makes me want to go back. 🙂
Gerald Bruce-Smith says
Great post, Becki.
I was in Iran late September 2014 for a tour, and really enjoyed it. I had no problems wandering solo around Tehran – most friends don’t believe that the street and highway signs are in English and Farsi
Esfahan, its palaces and mosques…..what can one say but magnificent.
I truly hope the sanctions etc get sorted out, and am glad my country – NZ – is now on the UN Security Council.
Becki says
I agree, it’s not a difficult place to get around and the metro is great!
Hassan says
Hi
I am an Iranian person
have you ever thought why we hated us government?(we are friend with USA people)
USA government told Shah of Iran to kill people who come to the streets and protest, so that it can plunder our oil as before
matin says
hi
do you really think that they was militant students???
i think they was reflective student that at first think and next did…
because there was Nest of Spies
not Embassy
architecture student from iran
thanks…
omid says
such a nice post. I’d love the way you looked into the building. coz although I’ve born and raised in tehran, I was never keen of visiting there, makes me disappointed.
these days I see more and more US citizens as tourists at ease.
we are in the middle of a new change.
Wai says
Amazing story. I was there, but did not go inside. You are certainly brave as I was hesitant to even take photos outside. However I guess that is part of the whole misconception about travelling in Iran.
Becki says
Indeed. The most interesting thing to note is that, despite the murals, people pass by it without a care for it. It’s a significant part of the country’s history, but not something that necessarily defines the sentiment of the people today.