This Cuba travel guide was updated in July 2019, especially in light of political changes and tourism regulations, to ensure it remains one of the most comprehensive and up-to-date overviews on how to visit the Caribbean island of Cuba on the web.
Travel to Cuba is every sound and shade of Caribbean beautiful on the surface – famed for its world-class cigars, infectious street music, vintage Cadillacs and pastel-hued decaying mansions. Beneath that, Cuba is an island unlike its neighbours – fractured by Communist rule and archaic social systems that make travelling here frustrating.
A source of fascination and media frenzy that was once only accessible to outsiders via its paradise beach hubs and neighbouring cities, travelling to Cuba has been open to wider exploration for quite some time.
However, away from cruise ship excursions and resort holidays, Cuba is not an easy place to travel to. Yet it is worth the challenge if you are curious enough to dig deeper. It’s one of the most captivating places you will ever visit and deemed the most fascinating of all the Caribbean.
Here’s how to prepare for all the things you will encounter on the ground with insider Cuba travel tips and helpful Cuba information sourced after spending one month travelling all around the country.
Travel extensively, and you’ll soon see that change is more important than those selfishly crying out, following the recent death of Fidel Castro, to pack in those Cuba trips before it does.
- 1 Travel to Ditch Those Preconceptions!
- 2 Best Time to Go
- 3 Getting Into Cuba
- 4 Can Americans Travel to Cuba?
- 5 Flying to Cuba
- 6 Preparation for Independent Cuba Travel
- 7 Help With Planning Where to Go in Cuba
- 8 Money in Cuba – Understanding Cuban Currency
- 9 How Much Does it Cost to Travel in Cuba?
- 10 Where to Stay in Cuba
- 11 Is Cuba Safe to Visit?
- 12 Food in Cuba – Lower Your Expectations
- 13 Cuba Transport System
- 14 How to Get Internet in Cuba
- 15 Do I Need to Learn Spanish for Cuba?
- 16 Bring Medication & Essentials – Cuba is Limited on Supplies
- 17 Daily Life in Cuba – The Ration Nation
- 18 The Frustrations of Cuba Travel
- 19 Suggested Books About Cuba to Read for Inspiration
- 20 Planning to Travel to Cuba? Pin It!
Travel to Ditch Those Preconceptions!
There is a multitude of reasons to visit Cuba, but one of them should be to break down your preconceptions and shatter some illusions you may have of the place. Because you will come face-to-face with many contradictions when there.
This is a country whose slow climb to normality is what many foreign visitors inadvertently come to see.
Its people are welcoming and will greet you with a smile, yet most are struggling.
The retro cars and crumbling buildings may be kitsch and step-back-in-time, but they are a reminder of the thwarted growth of the country.
Rules for travelling to Cuba are changing and visitor numbers are rising. Cuba tourism rests on the appeal of this window to the past.
However, there’s a much bigger picture that you do not see until you are actually there.
Beyond the usual Introduction to the Cuba travel route of Havana, Viñales and Varadero, I spent a month travelling further afield with two friends, venturing beyond to Matanzas, Santa Clara, Remedios, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Camagüey, Santiago De Cuba, Sancti Spiritus and Baracoa.
We were a team on a mission to uncover Cuba and its multi-layered landscapes and regions, knowing full well it wasn’t going to always be easy.
It’s hard to put into words the things we saw and the things we heard. It was hard work as a Cuba tourist to even find out the information needed to get a clearer picture. The things we loved and loathed and found confusing. The things to do in Cuba which also resulted in things that were heartbreaking to see. The first-hand lessons of Cuba’s history, found in every town and city and quiet street corner, and those of which summon almost daily debates over dinner about what aspects of this communist society work in present-day Cuba and those that don’t.
Going to Cuba soon shatters a lot of dreams.
Best Time to Go
The dry season, which typically runs from November to April is considered to be the best time to go to Cuba. May to October is the wet season where there can be heavy rains and hurricanes.
I visited in December during the start of the dry season and while we had many sun-drenched days, we also had sporadic rain which didn’t last too long. Since Cuba has a sub-tropical climate, this is to be expected.
Getting Into Cuba
How to Get a Tourist Visa for Cuba
Check With the Airline if a Visa is Included
You do need a visa to go to Cuba now and in most cases, a visa is included in your flight ticket price. I travelled with WestJet from Toronto and despite it not being a part of a package holiday, I was given a visa slip free of charge. That was after getting a Cuba visa at the embassy in London as a precaution, at the cost of £15. Check with your travel agent or airline before you leave.
Cuba Visa and Passport Requirements
The visa, known as the Tourist Card, gives you valid entry to Cuba for 30 days with a single entry. You need your passport to be valid for two months after the date of your departure, although I always think it’s wise to be cautious and have at least six months validity on your passport to avoid any issues.
You should also have proof of your return flight from Cuba, alongside the booking of your first accommodation at your destination of arrival. We flew into Varadero and had an e-mail confirming our casa booking in case we needed to show it. It was this address that we added to the visa form.
Travel Insurance is Mandatory
The Cuban government announced in early 2010 that all foreign visitors going into Cuba are required to have a travel insurance policy that covers the full duration of their trip before they enter the country. I was never once asked to produce my documents upon arrival, although I had a printed copy just in case. Regardless, you shouldn’t travel without travel insurance. Some policies do not cover Cuba, but World Nomads does. Medical assistance, in particular, can be very expensive in Cuba.
Airport Departure Tax
When leaving Cuba, remember to keep 25 CUC ($25) for the Airport Departure Tax, which you will pay officials at passport control as you are stamped out of the country.
Can Americans Travel to Cuba?
In short, yes, Americans can still go to Cuba despite the confusing information presented. Traveling Cuba from the US has always been effectively illegal without going through the proper license channels, but there were ways around it without any serious repercussions. Americans considering Cuba as a travel destination have options to do so now, but many have been entering Cuba for years in organised tour groups or with a special license following written permission.
Most of the American travellers in Cuba we met who were travelling independently got around such restrictions by flying via a non-US Gateway, such as Canada or Mexico. To avoid any trouble with US authorities when going home, their visa card (which they purchased at the airport or which was given to them on the flight) was stamped instead of their passport or (with some discussion with officials), no passport stamp was given at all.
However, a lot has changed for US citizens wishing to book Cuba vacations and even though you can’t just arrive and travel like others, you can apply for entry.
General License and Categories of Travel to Cuba for Americans
UPDATE for 2019: Since October 2017, with changes under the Trump Administration, you can no longer apply under the ‘People to People’ category in the general license listed below, although the ‘Support for Cuban People’ category remains open.
In December 2014, President Obama announced plans for the restoration of full diplomatic relations with Cuba, ending trade embargoes, which had been in place since 1960.
Since January 2015 the US Department of the Treasury announced amendments to the sanctions, where Americans can be granted ‘general licenses’ if they fall under one of 12 categories of travel. These include family visits, journalistic activity; professional research, educational and religious activities; public performances and humanitarian projects and support for the Cuban people. If you meet one of these 12 categories you do need to apply for a license to enter Cuba. Recent travellers have stated they simply declared their reason for visiting Cuba at passport control.
In November 2017 it was announced that independent travel was once again be restricted, reverting to group-only travel with a representative and barring Americans from using Military owned hotels and businesses. The requirements for visiting Cuba are constantly changing, so be aware of any governmental updates.
- As part of the changes, travellers can now use US credit and debit cards in Cuba. You should still take cash as a precaution.
- Stay up to date with developments on the website for the US Embassy in Havana.
Flying to Cuba
The best way to get to Cuba is but one of the many regular flight options, of which you will find many have to connect stateside. This depends on your starting country and if you need to transfer via the US or Canada.
Flights to Cuba from the US
On 31st August 2016, the US Department of Transportation announced that only 20 daily non-stop flights would operate from the US to Havana, 14 of which will be from Florida. Operators that fly to Cuba from the US include:
- American Airlines
Flights costs from the US to Cuba vary, but you can find deals for a little as $99 USD each way.
Flights to Cuba from Canada
Even if you are living outside of North America, your flight to Cuba will likely route through Canada (as mine did from London) if you are choosing a budget option. WestJet is one of the main carriers with regularly scheduled commercial flights to Havana and Varadero, and can also allow you to have a ‘split vacation’ where I was able to spend some time in Canada either side of my Cuba travels.
My return flight cost from Canada to Cuba on the Toronto – Varadero route was around $250 CAD.
The cost for a return flight from Toronto to Havana is a similar price.
Flights to Cuba outside of North America
Some of the main carriers offering flights to Cuba from further afield such as Europe (likely with one stopover) are:
- Air France
- Air Canada
Return flights to Cuba from European hubs start from around €700.
Preparation for Independent Cuba Travel
First, let’s talk about how big Cuba is. It is made up of 15 provinces that span over 110,000 square kilometres and getting from one end to the other of this long island is a journey of over 1,100 kilometres! Destinations may look close to one another on a map but can take many more hours than imagined. Getting to Cuba is the easy part, but if you travel to Cuba independently, getting from A to B on the ground isn’t always simple – you can’t plan your days according to rigid timetables.
- Roughly plan what parts of Cuba you want to go on a map that you can keep with you, like this laminated, pocket-sized folding map of Cuba by StreetSmart. For those wanting to dig deeper in Havana, the StreetSmart Havana map is also a great addition.
- Highlight the places you want to visit and start planning your first two or three stops. It’s hard to plan beyond that since you can’t always get the bus tickets where and when you want.
- A Cuba travel guide map will be useful for when you need to switch routes and see where the next nearest city is, or the next best place to pick up a bus or a shared taxi. Our plans changed so many times that I lost count, but we were quickly able to work out a plan of action by referring to ours. I got mine from the Auténtica Cuba tourism guide at a travel show, but they have a detailed digital map that’s also useful for pre-planning before you hit the ground.
- The Cuba Lonely Planet guidebook was handy to scribble down points of interest and have for quick referral when booking transport and making last-minute plans.
Our plan was to travel around Cuba by first catching a bus from Varadero that makes its route all the way down the National Throughway road towards Santiago De Cuba in the east of the island. Except we couldn’t get bus tickets for days, and nor could we afford to lose time waiting. That meant not even being able to get a ticket to Santa Clara along the way, from which we could easily get to Cienfuegos and Trinidad before venturing eastwards.
Our plan then changed to using a different bus route that would take us from Varadero to Cienfuegos and to Trinidad, and when we couldn’t get a bus to move further east (and would have to go back to Cienfuegos to easily travel to Santa Clara) we got a taxi to neighbouring Sancti Spiritus where we picked up another bus on its way to Santiago De Cuba. From there we travelled to Baracoa at the very end of the island, where we formulated a new plan and worked backwards towards the capital, taking in the cities on the main National Throughway road: Baracoa – Camagüey – Santa Clara – Havana.
Rule: there’s no one set easy route to travel around. Don’t plan too much and take it all as it comes.
Help With Planning Where to Go in Cuba
Can’t decide where to go? Want to do something very specific? Independent travellers can get help from locals in putting together a personalised itinerary
(Borders of Adventure readers get a 5% discount, applied at checkout).
Money in Cuba – Understanding Cuban Currency
The Cuban currency system can take a couple of days to figure out, but once you get the hang of it you can ditch the hefty tourist price tags and enjoy a budget trip to Cuba with more interaction with locals.
There are two currencies:
- The Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) – the exchange rate being approximately 1:1 with the US Dollar
When you arrive in Cuba, the first thing you need to do when you step off the plane is secure a good sum of cash to travel with. Since you cannot buy Cuban Convertible Pesos (CUC) outside of the country, you will need to bring Dollars or Euros to exchange at the airport when you arrive, and at the banks in all cities.
- The Cuban Non-Convertible Peso (CUP) or Meneda Nacional (MN) or National Peso – the exchange rate being 24 CUPS/National Pesos to one CUC.
Cuban money bills are very similar, so be sure to look at the wording closely, especially when getting change from a CUC bill. Don’t be surprised if someone has tried to give you the change in CUP notes and coins, as it’s a common scam.
Still, knowing these exchange rates is helpful, as you may, in rare circumstances, have to convert in order to pay for something. Examples include at local ice cream vendors or street food stands, where 5 CUP can be paid using a 20 or 25 CUC cent coin and for the toilets at bus station stops and elsewhere. The standard price for using the toiler is 1 CUP, so keep 5 CUC cent coins handy for those moments. Many tourists hand over 1 CUC ($1) not knowing.
National Pesos / CUPS can also be used at local markets, street stores and local Cuban food shacks, as well as collectivo taxis.
For further information on Cuban money and the differences in notes, alongside current exchange rates, check out this Cuba Currency website.
Spending CUPS / Cuban National Pesos
Tourists are not ‘supposed’ to use the local Cuban Meneda Nacional CUP, because having our own imposed form of Cuban currency to use means we can be charged inflated prices.
It was once only the governments who used to run local businesses including restaurants, and despite local people being granted the rights to own and run their own businesses, they are still heavily monitored.
However, it’s not illegal and nor is it impossible to dabble in local currency. The likelihood is that you will find it hard to:
a) Exchange CUCs to CUPS, although some banks do.
b) Find people willing to take it, since the CUC is worth more to them.
I’m not going to lie, spending local money became a joy, not only because it made a standard expensive Cuba trip more budget, but because we got to find tucked-away stores in quiet neighbourhoods and hole-in-the-wall vendors where we could hang out with the locals.
We would exchange money (sometimes just two or three CUCS at a time) with local friends or the Casa owner and save every National Peso coin we were given in change when paying for something in CUCs where exact change couldn’t be given.
One of my most treasured memories was stumbling upon a small shop in a backstreet in Trinidad where my friend and I spent two hours eating ham sandwiches and drinking Cuban rum and coffee, before buying wine and cigars to take away with us. Our afternoon set us back around $10, which is just under half of what a Cuban makes in one month. We got a chance to experience the real Cuba, as well as give back to a local business directly.
A Cuban friend in Santiago de Cuba took us to a Cuban restaurant set-up that was inside a house – a place with no sign and known only to locals. This was a special experience and one certainly attributed to being with a Cuban who know about it and could get us in.
How Much Does it Cost to Travel in Cuba?
Despite Cuba being Socialist, high prices are enforced across the entire country, where capitalist commercialism and tourist prices are in place for visitors making it fairly expensive.
It’s a contradiction for sure, but don’t assume a Cuba holiday is cheaper just because it is communist and therefore cheaper. You may be bringing in a stranger currency, but it’s not converted to a local one.
While the country used to only be set up for visitors flocking to Cuba coastal resorts on all-inclusive packages, over the years a chaotic and inflated pricing system has sprung up all over.
Most local restaurants will even hand you a specific tourist menu – one with fewer options and incredibly inflated prices. This also means you are likely to be ripped off often, especially where pricing isn’t clear regarding the CUC and the CUP and it comes of no surprise to hear that a black market is in firm force for locals, who often have to pay CUC prices for luxury goods.
Overall Costs of a One-Month Trip to Cuba
Backpacking in Cuba is not as budget style as Asia but can be cheap if you keep a tight eye on your expenditure.
In one month I spent a total of £1500, plus £700 on flights from Europe to Canada return and internally from Toronto to Cuba.
Our average daily budget in Cuba was $50 (50 – 60 CUC), including food, accommodation and entrance fees.
Exchanging Money in Cuba – Banks and ATMs
We brought in a mix of US Dollars, Canadian Dollars and Euros, and changed them at banks – Casas de Cambio SA (CADECA) – all over the country. I took 700 US Dollars and 500 Euros in hard cash with me, but it was far from being enough. I ended up withdrawing over $1,000 from ATMs in four separate transactions (luckily I have an international Caxton FX card that doesn’t charge me fees for withdrawals).
You’ll find ATMs all over, including in the small town of mountainous Vinales, but individual ATM machine fees apply so it’s best to carry as much hard cash with you as possible.
Standard Travel Costs in Cuba
Accommodation: 25 CUC ($25) per room, per night in a Casa Particulares (see below). An extra 5 CUC ($5) is charged for breakfast and a meal at the homestay will set you back around 10 CUC ($25).
Food: You can spend anywhere between 20 cents on a local ‘Peso Pizza’ or ham sandwich, to 15 CUC ($15) on a three-course meal at a local restaurant.
Drinks & Alcohol: A spirit and mixer could set you back as much as 5 CUC ($5) in some bars, and beers a little cheaper. We found it cheaper to buy a bottle of rum for the same price (or beers from the local store for 1 CUC), which we often drank on the street and shared with locals. Cue guitars, and lots of sporadic singing and dancing. A one-litre bottle of mineral water should cost you less than 1 CUC.
Entrance Fees: You will notice the inflated prices between the tourist entrance fee and the local fee at museums and sites of historical interest, where a 4 CUC entrance for visitors is only 4 CUP / National Peso price tag for locals. That’s $4 vs. less than $0.20 cents for locals – over 20 TIMES the price.
There were times where we pushed our luck, like at a Salsa stage show bar in Trinidad where there was a 3 CUC charge for tourists ($3) and a 3 CUP/National Peso charge for locals. Sometimes they let us get away with it, admiring our audacity in the face of tourist inflation at government-run establishments, whereas others simply gave us a straight no.
Buses: Ranged from 11 – 25 CUC ($11-$25) one way
Taxi hire: Prices for day trips worked out between 40-60 CUC for a round-day trip
Collectivos: Set prices ranging from 10 – 20 CUC depending on distance. Find out the set price from locals before embarking on the trip.
Local buses: Which you can catch to the beach in towns close to the coast (such as Trinidad) cost around 2 CUC ($2).
Internet cards: A one-hour card costs 2 CUC ($2) and five-hour card costs 10 CUC ($10). See below for further information.
Airport Departure Tax: Keep 25 CUC ($25) aside for when you leave.
Where to Stay in Cuba
Casas Particulares – Live Local
A ‘Casa Particular’ is a Cuban homestay, and the best and often the only option, especially in smaller towns. You occupy a bedroom in a local house, which has been transformed into a little guesthouse. Often you get your own bathroom, or you share with the family. The beauty of this is living local, having a Cuban on hand to help you and being right in the centre of each destination where the Casas are often situated. Just be prepared, in the majority of cases, to live simply.
Don’t be alarmed at having to hand over your passport at each Casa Particular. The owners of the Casas in Cuba have to apply for a special government license in order to operate this business and have to log each visitor and declare all income every day. Despite this, your money is directly in the hands of the locals (despite the high taxes), and you will be well looked after. Some of our Casa Mama and Papas made us dinner for an extra price (around 10CUCS) and a hearty breakfast of eggs, bread, fruits and coffee for 5 CUCS. This is offered to you upon arrival so they can pre-plan what foods they need to buy.
We found our Casas on CubaJunky, calling those listed in the Lonely Planet Cuba guide book and largely from the recommendations of Casa owners who would call through to their contact (often family members) in the next city, who would be there waiting to pick us up.
Airbnb in Cuba – The New Offering
Hostels in Cuba – In Major Cities
Outside of the well-entrenched Cuba resort set-up, there’s not a huge amount of options for traveller style hostels in Cuba. However, there are some larger casas with multiple rooms and some with dorms. There are currently options for hostels in Havana, Trinidad, Santiago de Cuba and Varadero. There’s also this Cuba accommodation overview for a quick fix list on some budget options, places close to nightlife and a few suggestions for first-timers in Havana.
Solo Travel vs Tours in Cuba?
Many visit Cuba without a tour, but others like to strip out the frustrations that come with it.
Not sure about independent travel in Cuba? Would you rather a route plan be taken care of and to travel in a small group with fellow adventurers? I recommend this 15-day Cuba tour with G Adventures, which takes in a lot of the country’s key cities in a big loop from Havana to Baracoa. This option means ditching the traditional tour guide in Cuba method and having a CEO (Chief Experience Officer) from the region facilitate your trip and help to navigate the trickier parts of getting around Cuba.
Is Cuba Safe to Visit?
Travelling in Cuba is considered to be safe, even for independent travellers. Petty crime, pickpocketing and scams in Cuba can be common but easily avoided by being streetwise. The only bad attention we ever encountered was from professional street beggars who got aggressive when we said no and from a local, we were hanging out with one evening who proceeded to continuously ask us for money.
Keeping safe in Cuba is more about dealing with the main interference you will encounter – that of opportunism.
There are no particular rules for travelling to Cuba but you should always make sure you are well prepared for any trip to Cuba via the advice given by your foreign office. If you’re planning to explore isolated parts of the island, especially on long treks, it’s always best to go with a guide who knows the area well. Be sensible and don’t walk down poorly lit streets at night. And if you’re staying out late in Havana, keep to the very centre as there are often police in the most frequented areas.
Before you travel Cuba, make sure you make a copy of your passport, insurance documents and other key documents and keep them safe throughout your trip.
Cuba’s ‘Committees for the Defence of the Revolution’
Even in Cuba now, Cubans live under a system of surveillance that you will see by the hand-painted CDR signs on houses, walls and fences in every neighbourhood you walk through. CDR stands for the ‘Committees for the Defense of the Revolution’ – a form of secret police that monitors the livelihoods and actions of the people. Others argue it as a force for social good that brings the community together.
The CDR, however, is not in force for travellers, and nor will it affect your travels in the country.
Solo Female Travel in Cuba – You Will Get Attention
It’s safe to travel in Cuba as a solo female traveller and in no way is it dangerous. The issue of attention is the most frustrating thing you will encounter here and travel safety in Cuba rests on keeping your wits about you in relation to that. Cuban men are open; the culture passionate, and it is not uncommon for wolf whistles and unsubtle looks and glances to be bestowed upon you. I walked around the back streets of Havana, solo, for days and the best thing was to ignore it so as not to incite or give a false impression. Often you can answer back sarcastically and it breaks the ice. Cubans live outdoors, with families hanging out on their street, sitting on the porch watching the world go by or playing board games. You are never really alone.
Don’t be alarmed if Cuban men come right up to you and ask you to Salsa at evening events and street gatherings. Dancing is everything and if often with no other intention other than to express yourself the way Cubans know best – music and moves.
Food in Cuba – Lower Your Expectations
Outside of Havana, where international cuisine is prominent, Cuba is not a huge foodie destination.
Let’s not forget that this is a country whose citizens survive on rations, so always bear in mind that as a visitor in a homestay, you are on the tail end of this, where supermarket offerings are limited.
Cuban Food to Try
However, signature Cuban dishes to indulge in are:
- Ropa Vieja (shredded beef) – normally served with rice and fried plantains (the latter of which I never got bored with)
- Fresh lobster – when on the coastal fringes of the country
- Arroz con Pollo – the simple but tasty chicken and rice, best served from a local BBQ joint.
The Food at a Casa Particular
Breakfasts at homestays are normally an extra 5 CUC ($5) and are plentiful, consisting of bread and an egg, jams, fresh fruit and coffee. We often took some of it away for snacks. Casas on the coast offered Lobster for dinner, which was a real treat, which came with dessert and a glass of wine for around 10 CUC ($10).
Cuban Restaurants & Street Food
Paladares are house restaurants which are privately run from a family home. These are great for trying local dishes in true Cuba style and a place where the profit goes straight into local hands.
Look out for locals queuing at a hole in the wall where you can pick up the infamous ‘Peso Pizza’ and local pizza and pasta places where you can get a meal for 1-2 CUC and save on budget, but know that spam (processed ham) is a filler in most foods and can quickly get boring.
Rum in Cuba is not the only liquid of choice since the Cafe Cubano is also a source of pride. You’ll often pass cafes and those hole in the wall places where you can stand with locals and sample an espresso (also referred to as a Cuban shot) that will set you back no more than 50 cents to 1 CUP. You can check out this beginner’s guide to Cuban coffee for a detailed overview on the Cuban coffee scene, Cuba’s coffee production, how and what to order and more importantly, how to make it when you get back home. You can also visit coffee plantations and take home beans from local producers, as well as visit the UNESCO site that is the remains of the first coffee plantations in the southeast of Cuba.
Pre-Book Popular Restaurants in Havana
If you want to try out one of Havana’s restaurant highlights, or a venue putting on a seasonal event or dinner setting (such as New Year’s Eve), it is advised to book several days in advance. My friends booked one or two restaurants before our month-long trip even started.
Bring Your Own Snacks
Bring snacks with you for sustenance – cereal bars, cookies and other such snacks are hard to find and three times more expensive than home. Also bring ketchup, Tabasco sauce and other flavourings, as a lot of food can be mightily bland.
Cuba Transport System
Using the Tourist Bus
The cheapest, quickest and most convenient way to travel in Cuba is by the Viazul bus network. Try and reserve in advance or buy tickets at least the day before you travel, either online or in person, as the buses fill up fast – especially the route from Havana towards Santiago de Cuba (going in the opposite direction is not so crowded). Where possible, and if you know your dates, ask if you can book more than one destination ticket at the bus station you find yourself at. We were able to do that on a couple of occasions.
Not that often we found the Cuba buses were overbooked, resulting in some travellers sitting on the floor or not being allowed on. As much as you may relish the politeness in queuing, be sure to secure a spot closest to the bus door while you are waiting. If you are with others, set a system like we did where one was responsible for loading the bags, and the others were responsible for running on the bus and holding seats!
Collectivos and Taxi’s
Collectivos are shared local taxis – a taxi in Cuba is an old American car – and often the better choice if travelling to a neighbouring city. They are slightly more expensive on average, but cut out a lot of the hassle with booking and waiting for the big buses for such a short journey. We took one from Havana to Vinales and it cost 20 CUC ($20) per person.
The cars should have a taxi sign in their front window, and all routes have a fixed price, so it’s worth asking your Casa owner what this should be for your desired route. If you have space in the car, expect Cubans to jump in along the way – this is course, being the convenience of this kind of taxi set up.
There were times that we often hired a standard taxi, not a collectivo, for shorter distances such as Varadero to Matanzas, Cienfuegos to Trinidad and Trinidad to Sancti Spiritus.
The one ‘consistent’ of travel to Cuba is that you will find that your plans quickly change. You should plan as you go along according to what buses are available for your desired route and time. Be open and aware that you may have to spend more on a taxi just to get to where you need to be, or for an open bus connection, which is why we ended up in Sancti Spiritus.
Car Hire In Cuba or Consider Hiring a Driver
We often found it cheaper to hire a driver for the day in all Cuban cities, getting out to the coastal fringes and lookouts, than to hire a car and drive ourselves. Often this option can also double up as a local Cuba tour guide experience. A taxi for the day may seem expensive but is the best option, especially when sharing the cost with another or a small group – cheaper than hiring a car AND paying the fuel on top. One litre of fuel costs just over 1 CUC ($1) and private car hire can be around 70 CUCS ($70) for the day.
An average cost to hire a taxi for the day was 60 CUC ($60) inclusive, where around two-thirds of that money went to the driver and the rest spent on fuel.
How to Get Internet in Cuba
Does Cuba have internet? Yes, except availability is limited to public plazas (squares), or within the big hotels set on the plaza and the price of internet in Cuba is costly.
ETECSA buildings (blue logo) are at each plaza, and can’t be missed with their stupidly long queues. It’s here that you can buy a 1-hour card for 2 CUC ($2) or a 5-hour card for 10 CUC ($10), each with a code that you enter on your phone. Your details are often logged at the time of purchase next to the individual card number. Some of the hotels also sell these cards and are happy for you to lounge in the foyer while you surf the web.
Each log-in code has a visible timer so that you do not lose any minutes if you log out before your time is up. Therefore it is easier to buy 5-hourly cards to avoid long waits in line. Street hawkers will try to sell you the cards on the street, often with no discount or nothing that amounts to little more than a CUC. It’s not worth the risk.
Internet was only introduced throughout Cuba in the middle of 2015, so the once pensive open squares are now crowded with people with their heads in their phones. The only app available to Cubans on their phones two years ago was e-mail, and now the internet is more available another world has opened up to them (despite being monitored and limited). A waiter told us that the youth no longer socialise, and many Cubans who do make it abroad download what they need before coming home.
Annoyed by the price? In a country where the average monthly wage is $25, you can only imagine how much of an expensive indulgence the Internet really is.
Do I Need to Learn Spanish for Cuba?
Knowing basic Spanish in Cuba is essential for travel. At least have a Latin American Spanish phrasebook or a means of translation available such as Google Translate or a language app on your phone that can work offline. You can travel around Cuba with no Spanish skills, but your time will be highly frustrating or filled with mime! English is not as widely spoken in Cuba as you may think, especially when you move outside of established destinations on the tourist route.
Bring Medication & Essentials – Cuba is Limited on Supplies
Cuba may have one of the world’s best medical systems in practice, but it doesn’t have the resources. What medications exist are limited to locals (and rightly so) and big pharmacies are very rare to find.
Before you go to Cuba, stock up. Bring Imodium and biodegradable wet wipes for bad days, Pepto-Bismol, travel anti-bacterial hand-gel, painkillers, natural deet-free mosquito spray (the Incognitio range is super), sun cream (the once a day sun protection option can be handy for busy sightseeing days) – all the essentials.
Why? If you do stumble upon a store that contains any items with a resemblance to medicines at home then you will be paying ridiculously high prices – likely three times the amount.
Doing Laundry in Cuba is also something that comes with an inflated cost, especially since detergent is expensive for locals. Therefore the costs at a Casa for an average 2-3kg of laundry come in high (up to 6 CUC / $6). Consider bringing travel wash with you for hand washing (Sea to Summit is one of my go-to ranges for concentrated formulas) or invest in the Scrubba Wash Bag (portable laundry system for travelling).
Consider leaving anything you have left over behind. The local people will appreciate it.
Daily Life in Cuba – The Ration Nation
One aspect of local society who you rarely find in detail in a Cuba travel guide is how life is built on a ration system and low wages means the things we take for granted are hard to come by or expensive for the local people. For example, there is no soap and toothpaste included on the monthly ration list.
Consider what gifts to bring to Cuba such as soaps, general cosmetics, pens and notebooks that you can donate or give to your Casa owners to distribute. It’s very likely you will be asked often on the street for clothing.
The Frustrations of Cuba Travel
Cuba is as beautiful as it is heartbreaking, as random as it is challenging. Your senses will be in overdrive and not everything will appear as magical as you assumed, especially once you dig deeper into exactly what is happening there. However, such realisations soon put you back in your place – we were told Cubans are taught from a young age that, “everything takes time.”
Suggested Books About Cuba to Read for Inspiration
While a Cuba travel guide book such as Lonely Planet comes in handy for on-the-spot planning, the complexities of Cuba are best explained with wider reading, most of which are personal accounts of the reality of living in Cuba or biographies of revolutionary figures.
- The Other Side of Paradise
- My Life – Fidel Castro
- The Motorcycle Diaries
- Trading with the Enemy: A Yankee Travels Through Castro’s Cuba
- Che Guevara: A Revolutionary Life
- Remembering Che: My Life With Che Guevara
- Slow Train to Guantanamo
- Last Dance in Havana
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