Visiting the Black Forest in Germany – Letting the Forest Be

The Black Forest in Germany is listed as one of the most beautiful and preserved landscapes in the country, alongside its fame for cake and cuckoo clocks. Here’s how to see it all.

It’s all too easy to encounter forests and vast open spaces across the world manipulated by man to provide easier access for mass traffic and gimmicky tourist attractions. Yet the Black Forest in Southwestern Germany prides itself on maintaining a pristine and natural landscape.

The timeless presence is down to ‘Bannwald’. It’s a philosophy that translates into ‘letting the forest be’; valley-deep and mountain-high vistas are preserved in such a way that ensures the harmonious coexistence of humans and nature all year round.

Here, the Black Forest dominates, and we, the curious hikers and dwellers, are at the mercy of its open plains and dominating plateaus.

Getting to the Black Forest Region

Located in the extreme south-west of Germany at the three-country borders of Germany, France and Switzerland, the Black Forest Highlands are accessible by bus and rail links from Stuttgart airport, with cost-effective flight routes. Getting here is as simple as a two-hour drive or a short train ride from Stuttgart airport, which lands you right in the heart of this enormous outdoor haven.

I only had one full day to trek the Black Forest as part of a trip in the Baden-Württemberg region and Hochschwarzwald. I wanted to get a taster of the wild woodland before heading off to the nearby Europa Park for Halloween for a different kind of adrenalin boost.

Black Forest Hiking – When to Go

Many are put off by the shoulder season, choosing to visit either in the summer or in the snow-drenched ski season. They are unaware that the Black Forest is inviting whatever the weather. Summer may bring with it a better sky and a burst of flora, but misy autumn has its own delectable palette pop in hues of orange, green, and yellow that emerge on the awing pathways below the mist that hovers across the top of the hilly forest, and over Feldsee lake. 

However, it is in winter that the age-old traditions and history come to life. Germany’s first skiing club was established on the Feldberg in 1891, and Schollach, in Eisenbach, was home to the world’s first ski lift in 1908. Skiing remains a popular choice here by tradition, with the modern addition of the Feldberg cable car able to get you up to dizzying heights for panoramic views.

Winter Hiking is possible, with blue signposts marking over 400km of snow-covered trails and pink signs for snowshoe walks. With the Alps in the distance and the opportunity to reach altitudes of 1,200m, this unspoiled winter landscape is maintained by volunteers daily, who ensure visitors keep on paths so as not to disturb the wildlife in the forest.

Hiking in the Black Forest Mountains

Tracking the endless landscapes here would take a lifetime, yet it’s still accessible to roam free or take on one of the signposted routes of the Hochschwarzwald (Black Forest Highlands). While not overrun, the Black Forest has enough to attract visitors aside from its top-class hiking trails, including countless mountain biking trails. With over 50 recommended routes in the area, you can also find a trail based on your needs and desired challenges. 

With my local guide, Sabrina, we set off for mountainous Feldberg, home to the highest peak (1493m) in the Baden-Württemberg region.

An endless expanse of lovingly protected land, it’s no wonder the Black Forest has been listed as one of the most beautiful landscapes in the entire country. Allowed to develop in a sustainable and ecologically sound way, it’s quite possibly one of the most untouched places in Germany to visit, and a whole other side to the country I never knew existed.

The Black Forest has a life of its own. Fallen trees are never moved, greenery dominates every rocky terrace, and narrow paths snake through the canvas in a mysterious pattern that eventually leads to traditional candy-coloured, thatched-roofed houses and farm inns. The most famous of these is Sawyer Häusle Raimartihop – the oldest inn in the state of Baden-Württemberg, which first opened in 1892 – where we stopped for a hearty lunch.

The day, of course, ended with a slice of Black Forest Gateau and a coffee in the famous Café Schnapshausle (also a Schnapps distillery and museum) run by the local Bizenberger family. It doesn’t taste as mild as it does at home.

Where to Stay in the Black Forest, Germany

While many opt to stay in a traditional Black Forest German guesthouse, the Hochschwarzwald / Black Forest Highlands tourism arm has set up a new offering called Kuckucksnester/Cuckoos Nest (the Cuckoo Clock is native to this region).

These modern design self-catering design apartments in Feldberg are equipped with all amenities, affordable (from 90 Euros a night), and furnished in a boutique style with wooden trims to keep with the traditional forest home feel. 

One of its key offerings is the view of the mountains and valleys in the distance. You first look out of the window in the morning is all the inspiration you need to get pumped up for a day of exploration.

Things to Know About Travel to the Black Forest

• Guided hiking tours of varying lengths and difficulties are available Monday through Friday. Specialist guides are available for themed tours or off-track routes.

• A Hochschwarzwald Card is recommended during your stay in the Black Forest Highlands, giving you access to 50 attractions for free throughout your entire stay, including a ski pass and toboggan run. You will receive a card from over 280 hosts if you stay for two or more nights.

• All visitors have access to the ‘Best of Wandern-Testcenter’, a unique test–centre service where various hiking gear is available free of charge.