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May Day in Istanbul and Taksim Square is marred by riots as others peacefully enjoy the holiday in other parts of the city. But why does this happen here?
International Worker’s Day on May 1st is a worldwide labour movement across 80 countries celebrating workers and their rights. For many, it’s a call to action, marked by peaceful rallies and community celebrations. For others, it’s a show of defiance.
Turkey is no exception to the rule, and in the heart of Istanbul, May Day marks a struggle between unions and the increasingly strict political system. After the events on May 1 in 1977, when unidentified gunmen opened fire on a crowd of more than 500,000 in which 36 people died, Taksim Square remained closed to celebrations until 2010.
When I was there in 2014, the government once again put a ban on any celebrations from taking place in Taksim Square and Gezi Park, citing intelligence reports of a potential presence of terrorist-related organisations. In spite of the ban, and in exercising their right to celebrate on May Day, Turkey’s major unions insisted on continuing their rallies.
Pre May Day in Istanbul
With the ban being seen as irrational, protests took place before May 1st, appealing to the court to lift the ban. It was later rejected. I arrived in Istanbul a week before May Day where riot police and riot vans were already stationed in Taksim Square, a dominating force against the very small groups of protesters.
Two days before May Day and life in the Taksim Square continued as normal against the sporadic scattering of police fences.
The Reality of May Day in Istanbul
What appeared calm and normal soon escalated into sporadic riots. Neighbourhood junctions were blockaded, with many frustrated tourists left trapped and bewildered. Elsewhere, groups of police dominated the main roads trying to determine what part of neighbourhood the protesters were moving through.
We came across one group of around 50 protesters, dressed in red masks and hard hats, with the ‘leaders’ amongst them armed with gas masks and catapults. What followed was a clash of firecrackers and Molotov Cocktails vs. the firing of tear gas.
Who fired at who first was hard to tell since the breakouts were quickly clocked in smoke. My initial thoughts were that this was about more than just a group of people wanting to celebrate May Day in Taksim Square and hitting out against the ban.
Many of the protesters were young, some still in their teens, and it appeared a mob mentality was easily stirred and that violence was on the agenda no matter what.
On the other hand, police seemed fierce in how they approached the protesters and where they fired their weapons, injuring innocent people in the process and gassing out local business (where locals and tourists like myself took cover).
Elsewhere in Istanbul, celebrations took place with public concerts and picnics stretching all the way to the Asia side.
Unfortunately, I was unable to get out of the Taksim to experience such festivities, instead, I was caged within the heart of this incredible city against my own will, the act of which, in principle, will no doubt always remain at the core of this annual conflict.
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Traveling Ted says
I hate to see violence, but it is nice to see people stand up passionately for what they believe in. That is unless they just believe in causing a ruckus and have no beliefs. In the U.S. we never march on the streets. We just grin and bear our problems and then only 20% of the people come out and vote.
Turtle says
Fantastic post! Really interesting to see how you perceived both sides. And there’s so much more detail in this story than you often get from media reports. Oh, and glad you’re safe!
Becki says
Thank you so much!! We soon went inside to stay safe… and because my eyes were stinging!
William says
I managed to get myself caught up in a similar situation in Istanbul this time last year. The place gets locked down and the tension rises throughout the day. All part of the Istanbul experience! Glad you came out unscathed and with an interesting story to tell!
Becki says
Were you in Taksim last year? It certainly is a unique thing to experience here, and part of the makeup of the city.
Beverley says
Brilliant write-up hun. I saw your update on Facebook earlier and hope you’re OK – I know that the tear gas and having to hide might make a good story in the future (because that’s totally how I would think about it) but it also must’ve been scary. I think you’re probably a lot calmer than me though, I’d be freaking out. Stay safe 🙂 xx
Becki says
Thank you. Safety is of the upmost importance. I would never put my life on the line that much… all within reason 🙂