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Meeting locals in Kathmandu not only means giving something back to the Nepalese community but also where you might just learn something.
When it comes to eating and drinking, I’m all about visiting local hangouts and seeing local life in situ. Not only does this mean giving something back to the community, but it also means interacting with the people and sampling traditional food, drink and culture at its absolute best.
Meeting locals in Kathmandu, away from the specific tourist hubs, has been one of my best experiences here so far.
In Kathmandu, local tea and snack houses appear almost everywhere. With doors not that much taller (if not smaller) than my mini 5”4 height and an interior no bigger than 6-8 square metres, they are easy to miss. When stumbled upon, they are a delightful experience where you can tuck yourself away from the main street and core site chaos for a short while.
Stopping for a Masala tea created a chance encounter with Kathmandu locals and a chance to find out more about life in the city.
READ MORE: What To See in Kathmandu – Nepal’s Cultural Trove.
Local Life in Kathmandu
You can spend hours walking from main square to iconic site, but my travel buddy and I loved being amidst the spontaneity of local life that emerged from every street corner and hidden alley, and we were not ones to miss what looked like a simple yet well-established family-run business.
Situated on Kilagal street, which connects to the Pyaphal Tole street leading south to Durbar Square, the shop had no sign. All that existed was a little commotion, a few young children playing outside and an elderly lady sat behind the counter watching the world go by. But it was the young boy who caught our attention, whose amazing grasp of English and charm of a salesman resulted in us heading inside.
As two Western girls thrown amongst a group of confused-looking locals (I gather not many travellers before us had ventured in), we never once felt uncomfortable. We were just as interested in them as they were in us, communicating only via smiles as we sat quietly sipping our tea.
The young lad, Ram, soon became our friend and told us his story. At the age of 14, he was working most days for his grandparents, who owned the shop, joining his siblings and other family members in the venture but using the opportunity to practice his English.
We praised him for speaking it so well and soon learnt that his time there was all a part of a bigger dream: “I don’t want all this. I want to be a mechanic.” He asked many questions about our lives – us having led such different childhoods – and we learnt from one another about generational expectations and sharing encouragments to continue learning something new.
The charm offensive worked. After paying 25 rupees (20 pence) for two teas and a snack, his grandma looked in disbelief and said, “Too much”. But you can’t fault the kid for trying – we all would. We went back the next day.
Kathmandu hums with entrepreneurial spirit, and supporting locally owned businesses like family-run restaurants, neighbourhood shops, and independent artisans is one of the most direct ways visitors can ensure their money stays in the local community economy. An overcharge by a few cents is not worth a second thought. I pop into every local tea house I see, drawn by the familiar long pour and the nostalgic flavours of the spicey milky Chiya.
Rubik Joshi says
While going through the article, I realised that the tea shop that you visited is just a few blocks away from my paternal home. Not sure if the tea shop is still there, but it felt like walking down memory lane while going through your articles. However, I’d like to comment on one of the paragraphs where you’ve mentioned that the majority of the Nepali people are living in poverty. From a responsible traveller’s perspective, isn’t this what we call a saviour complex that travellers have? Feel free to share your thoughts on it. 🙂
Becki says
I hope it still exists. I revisited in 2019 when I was back and hope to visit again this year – this post was first written in 2012. Which pertains to your point that it is good to update community perspectives with better direction. Thank you for bringing it up.
Marysia says
Great post and really nice pictures! That it what I love the most about traveling…locals!
Rashaad says
Lovely article. It’s so fun when you meet locals while traveling. I’ve been never to Nepal but during the times I’ve been backpacking in Thailand (actually, more so the most recent one), I found it relatively easy to find local hangouts. Although I didn’t meet too many people, I did eat some delicious food 🙂
Michael Hodson says
Jealous of your travels in that region. I haven’t been able to get there yet and its a huge hole in my travel resume. Really lovely story and inspiring me even more to go — and I already had a lot of inspiration (though not a lot of time, alas).
Kev says
Hey Becs….
Reading your story has brought a smile to my face. I can imagine these are the things that you’ll remember, something that really touches your heart. As westerners we have no idea of struggle to live one’s dreams. Ram should be an inspiration to us all. I hope he achieves his dreams of becoming a mechanic. If i go next year, I will certainly try and visit.
Thank you for sharing the story……Look forward to seeing more 🙂
Becki says
He’s a savvy kid, so I hope so. I much prefer these types of experiences… you will always remember the special human encounters.
Aakar says
*your experience about Zipline, paragliding, rafting etc…
Aakar says
Lovely Post. We frequently hangout in Durbar square and have tea there. Btw, I just happen to see your Tweets on Twitter, hope to read about Zipline, paragliding, rafting very soon. Enjoy. 🙂
Becki says
Thank you! I only went down to Durbar Square a few times but I loved wandering the backstreets! So much to see!
Travelling Bag says
I’m heading to Kathmandu next May before setting off on the Everest Base Camp trek and this is exactly the sort of experiences I want to have, away from the usual tourist haunts. Thanks for your insight.
Arianwen says
I love moments like this when I travel. Good on you for picking such a remote place and not being put off by the discomfort of a language barrier. I hope this kid achieves his dreams.
Joanna says
The story of the boy moved me. I hope he will become a mechanic one day!
Ashley Fugett says
Lovely post! I’d love to have the chance to add Nepal to my list of places visited. I agree that getting to know the local people is really what helps you know and understand a culture.
Becki says
I’m at my most happy when I stumble upon these situations. Just to have a moment to evaluate your life in relation to others and to understand people better. You must add Nepal to your list – it’s beautiful and a very interesting place.