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Whether self-guided, on a bike or via horse cart, a Bagan tour at any pace means exploring a city filled with thousands of ancient temples. Here’s how to find the temple wonders of this magnificent city and archaeological zone of Myanmar.
I arrived in Bagan at 4 am following another long overnight bus from Inle Lake, stupas dotting the twilight-cloaked plains. I had two options for finding my hotel – by foot or by horse and carriage. “How wonderfully quaint,” I thought. Sitting in the open cart, feet dangling over the edge, bumping along with the clip-clopping sound down the dark streets in the early morning hours, Bagan was already beginning to feel like a centuries-old time hop.
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In the Ancient City of Old Bagan
The temple city of Bagan is one of the four top traveller hotspots in Myanmar, alongside Yangon, Mandalay and Inle Lake, and it still retains an ageless feel, nostalgic of the time when the temples were constructed between the 9th and 13th centuries.
But if you are thinking of a temple complex here that’s similar in size and easy navigation to that of Angkor Wat in Cambodia, think again.
The entire city is filled with temples—over 2,000 of them. The Bagan Archaeological Zone comprises a scattering of stupas, pagodas and monasteries around every corner, alongside every road, behind housing and shopfronts, and pitched across the vast arid plains. Small and nondescript, big and imposing, huge and magnificent, they are there.
A visit to Bagan requires a $10 conservation fee/sightseeing ticket, which is valid for your entire stay. Tickets can be purchased from your hotel or guesthouse upon arrival. Considering the full-day nature of getting around, this is a minimal fee that contributes to the protection of this significant historic site.
Visiting the vast 2,000 temple Bagan Archaeological Zone.
READ MORE: Ethical Myanmar Travel Guide: What To Know Before You Go.
Visiting The Bagan Archaeological Zone
Your hotel or guesthouse will likely be based in New Bagan (half an hour from the main temples, predominantly in Old Bagan). They will help you mark out the most interesting 10 or so temples on a map, tell you the best route to get around, and tell you where to watch sunrise and sunset – an incredible view as you look out across the never-ending landscape and see all the spires of the hundreds and thousands of temples, like stalks sprouting through the undergrowth.
Bagan is extraordinary but completely exhausting, and it pays to go with the flow rather than try to overcram and overexert yourself. I say that after I passed out in bed after five hours of exploration.
Getting to Bagan
I travelled to Bagan from Inle Lake on a seven-hour overnight bus. Getting to Bagan from the northern city of Mandalay takes four hours on the bus and eight hours from the southern city of Yangon, with many opting for the night bus option to utilise time on the ground with the early arrival.
Best Time to Visit
Myanmar has three distinct seasons, and Bagan in the north follows these seasonal tropical climates:
- October to March: The dry winter season with optimal temperatures but more crowds.
- March to May: The hot summer season with fewer crowds but sweltering heat, which I found harder during long cycle rides.
- May to October: This is the wet, rainy season, making a trip to Bagan’s dusty, arid lands more challenging.
The best time to visit Bagan is from the beginning of November to the end of February when the weather is cooler and drier. If travelling during the hot and dry seasons, pack sunscreen and bug repellent and carry plenty of water – there are street stalls, but often, you’ll venture out to isolated pockets of Old Bagan with nothing to hand.
How Many Days Do I Need in Bagan?
Many pass through, arriving in the morning, squeezing in an all-day tour and leaving the next morning. One and a half days were enough for me (including sunrise and sunset), and gave me more downtime between temple hops.
No matter how long you spend in Bagan, the views are unbeatable, especially when, for most of the time, you may have patches of the rural landscape all to yourself – one of the pros of not riding around the temples really early in the morning (at risk of sunstroke) and visiting during the low tourist season.
Getting Around the Temples
There are two options to get around the vast chunk of main temples (and anything else in between should you be able to muster up the energy): hiring a horse and cart for approximately $15-$20 for the day or hiring a bike for around $3.
I chose the cycle option, which would give me more freedom to stop when I wanted, hang out with the locals at the snack stalls in between, and ride to any hidden little nooks and crannies as and when I found them. Plus, because of my animal hair allergies, the horses there made me sneeze so much that I’m surprised I managed to still breathe. My guess is they are rarely groomed.
Hiring a horse and cart driver to get around Bagan.
Motorbikes are the transport of locals.
Horse carriage touring in Bagan.
The dusty, dry temple fields of Old Bagan.
Bagan’s Most Beautiful Temples
Where do you start in a vast arid plain with nearly 2,500 temples? Here are some of Bagan’s most sacred and standout temple complexes.
Cultural Temple Etiquette
All temples in Bagan must be visited barefoot, as is customary in Buddhist practice. Remove your shoes (and socks) and leave them on the shelf at the temple entrance. Do not touch sacred objects, climb temples (unless it is allowed for sunrise and sunset viewings) or stand with your back facing Buddha. As active places of worship, ask before taking photographs of local people.
That Bin Nyu Temple.
Ananda Temple.
Sinmyarshin Temple.
Gawdawpalin Temple.
Shwezigon Pagoda.
Dhammayangyi Temple.
Sulamani Temple.
Mee Nyein Gone Temple.
Bagan Temple Stupas.
Buddhist pagoda temples.
Passing by fields of smaller temples.
Isolated temple sites.
Sunrise in Bagan
Unbeatable sunrise views across Old Bagan, with temples poking through the trees.
Join locals admiring the Bagan temple landscape.
Sunset in Bagan
The golden hues of sunset over the orange temple plain.
Golden illuminated temples.
The beauty in the vastness of Bagan.
Local Life in Old Bagan
Local life amongst the temple grounds.
Meeting Burmese locals in the many Bagan temples.
Living amongst the temples in the tree-filled arid Old Bagan.
Old Bagan Temple City.
Becks R says
Hi Becki
I am off to Myanmar (& Cambodia) in 3 weeks and it has been so great to find you site – one of the better travel sites I’ve found.. really informative and inspirational as well. Haven’t travelled as a solo girl for a good few years ( for the last 12 most BIG trips have been with mates or groups) but I am celebrating my 50th with a special treat. Can’t wait to take endless photos, do some sketching and writing and just soak up the gloriousness of this place!!
Thanks for all your hints and info….keep travlling, girl!! 🙂
sheri says
Such beauty. I just discovered your site and am enjoying it. Were you here solo? Did you feel safe as a female? Thanks!
Becki says
I was solo and I never felt unsafe – the safety of tourists is a huge priority in Myanmar and you will see signs everywhere about it. I biked around Bagan on my own and never once encountered any problems.
Joe Louis says
I rented a cheap bicycle to get around Bagan – it was painful at some points but I liked having the independence of going where I wanted when I wanted to. There are so many beautiful temples to see!
David says
Hi Becki – read your blogs about Myanmar with real interest I have been to majority of SE Asia but not Myanmar yet – but after Reading think this has to be done soon before the masses arrive. Would 2 weeks be too long or is there enough to find to do? Thanks in advance.
Becki says
Two weeks would be plenty to see the main four sites and a couple of places in between. You will be busy, but it will be worth it to see such an incredible country!
marcus says
Hi Becki,
Just wondering what camera and gears do you bring while exploring Myanmar? I am thinking of doing a backpacking trip there and at the same time I was hoping I could shoot some of the interesting places that I am bound to encounter there.
Your pictures look AMAZING!
Becki says
I have a Canon 600d. Bagan is an incredible place to practice photography!
Marcus says
Oh..what lens do you pack along with your 600d? I was thinking of bringing a wide-angle and a 50mm prime but worried that i’ll hit myself for not bringing a zoom lens.
And I totally agree with you, judging from the pictures that you have taken! Awesome!!
Becki says
I just carry one, the 18-135, although keen to get a 50mm!
Marcus says
Oh thats convenient!
Yeahh the 50mm is a good len albeit not as flexible as zoom lens could offer 🙂
MightyTravels says
I really enjoyed my time in Bagan back in 2012. Such a beautiful and tranquil place. I hope it will stay that way a little longer!
Riz says
Stunning Photos! Bagan looks so beautiful! I love the dramatic sunrise. Gorgeous! 🙂
Brad Bernard says
Awesome pics! That place is so magical. With over 4000 temples, you really feel like you are discovering these temples for the first time. I’m so amazed that each temple is just barely big enough to house a monstrous Buddha statue (or 4), like a gigantic Russian Doll.
Everyone should try to get there before the tourist dollar changes things.
Becki says
Some of the temples are random, especially inside. And yes, you suddenly see a giant Buddah and then try and work out the scale. 2,000 temples is a lot to get through and some are no taller than me… so I just chose around 20. haha
Jennifer says
Ohy gosh, these pictures are gorgeous! We’re going to Bagan in November and I am even more excited now!
erik says
hey becki i was surfin the net and found your site. i am on the way to bangkok, not sure yet wether to go to cambodia or to myanmar. I visited both 6 years ago in spring.
can you do me a favour an tell me
if you could cash money at the atm and
whats the weather like (weather forcast says its raining most of the day) or is it just a normal monsoon at nighttime
thx a lot
Becki says
There are cash machines in both countries… not as many in Myanmar as they are a new introduction. South East Asia is still in rainy season so unlikely you will get lots of constant sun. Better to wait until October time when it eases a little and not so much rain.
Ryan says
Wow! So many gorgeous temples! Love the photos Becki, I’ll be definitely hitting here at some point. I probably would have taken the bike too because I have to stop like every two seconds, bummer it wore ya out so much!
Becki says
I was over temples before getting here, but some of them are pretty amazing. You will be won out too, I’ll promise you that!
jennifer says
Oh how I can not wait to be there. I am drooling over your pictures.
Jen says
I wrote a similar post about Too Many Temples when I was in India. They are all so beautiful but I was told EVERY temple was the best and the one I MUST see, every day, every corner another blooming temple.
Ok so they are beautiful and the temples in Myanmar do look amazing and makes me want to visit, but seriously 2000 temples! One or two really nice ones are just good for me to get my temple fix 😉
Some gorgeous photos!
Beth says
For me it was like that in Japan. Some of them were absolutely stunning and I highly recommend… but after seeing about 30, you start to feel like you’ve seen them all…
Still really hoping to visit Bagan though! Really great photos Becki!
Becki says
I am so templed-out. Still, Bagan HAD to be seen as it really is a stunning landscape and unlike any other place I have been to where the temples are either scattered and few or there is just the one in the middle of nowhere. Bagan kind if tops the list for one of the best places to see magnificent temples, but after… I was certainly done!
Kristy says
These pictures are amazing! I am so so jealous of your trip!!!!!