Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links to handpicked partners, including tours, gear and booking sites. If you click through or buy something via one of them, I may receive a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you and allows this site to keep running.
Thinking of going to Myanmar? You can’t right now. Myanmar is in a state of civil war, and all travel should be avoided. This ethical Myanmar travel guide references insights from past trips. I hope one day, the people of Myanmar can find peace under democracy once again.
Why can’t you go to Myanmar right now? A country shrouded in constant turmoil, the events of 2021 sent Myanmar back on a dark path.
As of 1st February 2021, Myanmar’s military staged a coup d’etat after the National League for Democracy (NLD) party won the election for the second time. Senior members of the party, including Aung San Suu Kyi and President Win Myint, were detained in the capital, Naypyidaw. Tanks stormed the streets, lines of communication across the country went down, and civilians were murdered. In September 2021, Myanmar’s shadow government called for a “people’s defensive war” against the country’s military.
This is not the time to travel to Myanmar when the country is in a state of emergency with civil unrest and armed conflict.
To keep up to date on the situation, on-the-ground updates can be found on Myanmar Now News.
Article Contents
- Is it Ethical to Travel to Myanmar?
- Myanmar Travel Guide – Foreword
- Is Myanmar Safe?
- Myanmar or Burma? Why Did it Change Its Name?
- Who Can Travel to Myanmar? Visas and How to Get There
- Best Time to Visit Myanmar
- The Best of Myanmar – Where to Go and Things to Do
- Money in Myanmar – Currency Exchange and ATMs
- Is Myanmar Expensive? Budget Travel Tips
- Responsible Travel in Myanmar – Know Who You are Supporting
- Choosing Accommodation in Myanmar
- How to Travel in Myanmar – Transport Options
- Hard-to-Reach Places in Myanmar
- Solo Travel vs Group Travel – Myanmar Tours
- Discussing Politics in Myanmar – Is it OK?
- Learning Burmese is Helpful, Not Essential
- The Internet in Myanmar is VERY Limited
- Negotiation, Haggling and Bartering is Not Common
- Unusual Things About Myanmar
Is it Ethical to Travel to Myanmar?
Rohingya Crisis
Prior to the military coup, the Rohingya Crisis in Myanmar posed a difficult moral choice about whether it was ethical to visit Myanmar at a time where over half a million Rohingya refugees had to flee the country because of violence.
The guardian has extensive coverage about the genocide.
Choosing to travel there at this time was, of course, a personal decision since other regions in Myanmar remained separate from this particular conflict. Still, it is good to be well-informed about the situation, political tensions, and the Myanmar government’s actions, which do not reflect its people overall.
Myanmar Travel Guide – Foreword
Travel to Myanmar (or travel to Burma, if referring to its former name) is hot on the Southeast Asia travel trail now. Yet, as a country that has only recently opened its doors to tourism over the past decade, travelling here means facing many challenges that you do not necessarily encounter on the same scale as other countries in the region.
Infrastructure is only just beginning to spring into life, and the art of the tourist trade is still in the developing process, yet every second of the long journey times, the energy expended in the daily frustrations. The patience and sign language needed to cross the language barrier is worth it for the rewarding experience you will have travelling in Myanmar.
Be prepared for the different kind of travel you will encounter in Myanmar, and don’t believe the scaremongering about the ridiculous expense and immense difficulties that are putting many people off travelling here.
Myanmar Travel Guide – A Different Way of Travelling in Southeast Asia
The beauty of being in Myanmar is in not knowing what will happen and in the understanding that both you as a traveller, alongside the local people are helping to bring about a new beginning. Tourism in Myanmar is a new lifeline, providing it does not eventually ruin the country, which is a current concern.
Here you will find a comprehensive Myanmar Guide that I pulled together after travelling through the country for one month. A resource which I hope is useful, before you jump headfirst into a place which Kipling described as, “unlike any land you know about”.
Is Myanmar Safe?
Right now, ALL TRAVEL TO MYANMAR SHOULD BE AVOIDED.
Before the Military coup, a trip to Myanmar was considered safe with no tourist-related violence having been reported in the known traveller circuit of Yangon, Bagan, Inle Lake, Hsipaw, Pyin Oo Lwin, Mandalay and the Mergui Archipelago.
I never encountered any issues, and the only time I felt a little uncomfortable was when some of us were travelling to a recently opened part of the country. We were clearly under some surveillance (more so at bus checkpoints) being new in town. I never once felt in danger, and nor did I feel in danger despite the curfews in some places.
I was always advised to avoid any protests and demonstrations and be more cautious should there be a military event, celebration or rally. In short, don’t get involved.
Tourists are safe in Myanmar and looked out for
Heightened Caution in Rakhine State
While no foreign office or state departments are placing high warnings or statements suggesting avoiding travel to Myanmar unless necessary, there is updated advice. Since the end of 2017 does show a warning for significant risk of violence in the Rakhine state and the northwestern region of the country.
Like with any political situation, it is wise to stay up to date with developments and the advice of your foreign office in case of a Myanmar travel warning. The UK Foreign Office, for example, advises being more vigilant on the anniversary of the attacks in Rakhine on 25th August 2017.
Avoid Land Borders
It is further advised (including the official land border crossings) to avoid the border areas, especially those with Thailand, Laos and China (but also India and Bangladesh). This avoidance is due to drug smuggling activity and military and ethic militia activity where regular armed clashes take place.
Internal conflicts still plague Myanmar, and while many of the areas where these take place are entirely off-limits to tourists without a permit anyway, it is good to stay aware of exactly where you shouldn’t be visiting. The UK Foreign Office lists updated travel advice on specific regions.
Burmese People Are Welcoming to Tourists
Burmese people are the most genuine, friendly, warm-hearted and amazingly beautiful people I have ever met.
Not one will turn you away when you need help, and hardly anyone will try to short change you or be cheeky in a transaction.
They are so fascinated by the presence of outsiders, that you can see the sheer excitement on their faces. Smile and say hello, shake hands, hug, exchange e-mail addresses and revel in the great reaction you get back.
You are never without Burmese friends.
Myanmar or Burma? Why Did it Change Its Name?
The country formally known as Burma gained independence in 1948 from occupying forces. Still, it wasn’t until 1989 that the ruling military junta (that retains majority power today), changed the country’s name from Burma to Myanmar following a military coup.
Myanmar vs Burma – is it the same? Politically no. In tourism, yes.
Politically, the name Burma was seen as a relic of the country’s former British colonial past, and Myanmar as more inclusive of the many ethnic groups in the country. Other names were also changed, which is why you will see Rangoon now referred to as Yangon.
For tourism, to travel Burma is to travel Myanmar. Same same, as they say in Southeast Asia.
Both Burma and Myanmar are still used interchangeably, on the ground and the world stage. This article breaks down the changes, what you ‘should’ say and the question: does it even matter?
Who Can Travel to Myanmar? Visas and How to Get There
Visas for Myanmar can be obtained online from the official governmental eVisa website ($50 or $56 for an express service).
Flights to Myanmar are the usual option for travellers as the first mode of entry, with regularly scheduled services from Bangkok. But, considering where Myanmar is located – bordered by China to the North and Northeast, Thailand and Laos to the east and India and Bangladesh to its west – there are multiple avenues for land entry. However, not all of them are advised due to safety.
Regardless, you must specify a “Port of Entry” in your online application which denotes how you will be getting to Myanmar. You will be given a list of options, from which you will need to choose one of the following:
Myanmar Designated International Airports:
- Mandalay (located right in the middle of Myanmar)
- Yangon (located in the south)
- Nay Pyi Taw (situated in between Mandalay and Yangon)
Crossing at Land Border Checkpoints:
- Tachileik (in the Shan State of eastern Myanmar on the border to northern Thailand)
- Myawaddy (in the Kayin State of southeastern Myanmar on the border to western Thailand)
- Kawthaung (in the southernmost part of Myanmar, Tanintharyi Region on the border of the Thai Peninsula and the cluster of islands)
- Tamu (in the Sagaing Region of northwestern Myanmar on the border to northeastern India)
- Rih Khaw Dar (a six-hour drive from the border village of Khawmawi in the northwestern Chin State of Myanmar on the border of Southeastern India)
In reality, you can enter Myanmar at any designated “Port of Entry”, but it is best to stick to the one you originally stated if possible to prevent any hold up in the processing of your visa upon arrival.
You can exit at any of the International Airports and Land Border Checkpoints since your exit point does not need to be stated up-front. Additionally, you may leave at the Htikee Land Border Checkpoint, although entry from here is not possible.
While a month of travelling is not possible for everyone if you can make the most of your 28-day visa for a Myanmar trip, do. This country is not one to be seen in a few days or a week, much like you can do the key highlights in the more easily navigable Cambodia and Vietnam. Myanmar is a vast country and travel times are long, plus it takes times to get to grips with how things work here and understanding the people, the culture and the political climate. Spend at least two weeks here if you can – skimming this incredible landscape is an absolute waste.
Best Time to Visit Myanmar
There are typically three seasons in which you can visit Myanmar:
- October to March: Dry, winter season
- March to May: Hot, summer season
- May to October: Wet, rainy season
Taking into account the climate and tourism footfall, I recommend the following seasonal breakdowns.
I want to go to Myanmar when there is cooler weather
Downside: Lots of tourists
The popular, high season is November to February when the weather is warm but not stifling, and attracts the most significant number of visitors.
This season, in turn, makes the limited accommodation options tricky to secure and will mean trying to book ahead or face paying out for the more expensive options left over.
I want to go to Myanmar when it is not so crowded with visitors
Downside: It’s stifling hot
March to May is the time when the temperature rises in Myanmar and impending rains are due. I choose to travel in May, as the monsoon season typically starts in June.
I wanted to arrive just before the rains, where there was a limited number of tourists, and I could walk into a guesthouse and get a room without any problems. The only downside to this time of the year is that it is incredibly hot and I mean disgustingly, sweaty hot.
No matter what time of the year you visit Myanmar, you are rewarded with incredible views.
The Best of Myanmar – Where to Go and Things to Do
You won’t be short on options about where to go in Myanmar, and a traveller path has been lightly trodden. The loop between Yangon and Mandalay is both easily accessible and well-established for a good reason, so don’t be put off by those Myanmar destinations listed as tourist spots. What to see in Myanmar depends entirely on your own desired ration of culture and adventure, since the country is filled with everything from city exploration, multi-day hikes, cycling tours and river journeys. And with Myanmar’s location next to the Andaman Sea (and the Bay of Bengal), beach time and diving are also on the list.
Carve your path.
Visit Yangon
While no longer the capital of Myanmar, Yangon (formerly Rangoon) is not short on sights. A city of British colonial architecture and modern developments mixed with the gleaming Buddhist temples and pagodas, you might be surprised how long you want to stay. Highlights include the Shwedagon Pagoda, the colonial-era Kandawgyi Lake, the Chauk-htat-gyi Buddha Temple showcasing one of the country’s largest reclining Buddha statues.
READ MORE: Riding the Yangon Circular Train in Myanmar
Bike in Bagan
Ananda Temple.
Bagan is a city filled with over 2,000 temples built between the 9th and 13th centuries. Hire a bike for the day and visit as many as you can, and clamber temple heights for sunrise and sunset. Many travellers stay for two days to cover the temple grounds and have adequate rest from doing so in the heat.
READ MORE: Bagan – The Vast Temple Town of Myanmar
Take a Boat Tour on Inle Lake
Inle Lake’s one-leg rowing Intha fishermen.
The second largest lake in Myanmar is located in the northern Shan State and is a vast basin, snaking off into tiny canals with small hand-built dams and floating gardens. People come here to see the fisherman using traditional fisherman methods, by operating the oar using one leg.
READ MORE: Inle Lake: Myanmar’s Biggest Tourist Attraction
Hike Hsipaw to Kalaw and Train to Pyin Oo Lwin
Hsipaw is known for its hiking trails, where I took on a three-day trek through this rural region of Myanmar towards Kalaw. Following that, the three-hour train journey from Hsipaw to the former colonial summer hideaway of Pyin Oo Lwin, across the Goteik Viaduct is a heart-racing journey and an unforgettable experience in Myanmar.
READ MORE: Crossing The Goteik Viaduct – Riding the Highest Railway Bridge in Myanmar
Visit Mandalay
A bustling, dusty city in a river valley landscape surrounded by mountainous plains and rice paddy fields, Mandalay is a perfect combination of city exploration and countryside adventure.
READ MORE: Biking in Mandalay – Finding Kipling’s Rural Myanmar
Rakhine State
For those looking to get off the well-established Bagan – Inle Lake – Yangon golden triangle, consider the long journey to Mrauk U in the western Rakhine State to see untouched temples and learn about the tattooed women of the Chin tribal village.
READ MORE: Mrauk U Myanmar – The Temples & Tribal Tattooed Women of Western Myanmar
Get to the Mergui Archipelago
This Archipelago, off the far south coast of the long peninsula mainland of Myanmar, has hundreds of islands. While many come here for pristine beaches, its coral reefs attract divers to the region because it is unspoilt. The Archipelago used to require a government permit for a visit, but do double-check which areas are now open and which may still be subject to permission.
Be Prepared to be ‘Templed Out’
Myanmar is not short on temples.
In Myanmar, a temple will greet you on every corner, or more specifically, here, a golden stupa/pagoda/pyre. While beautiful, it can be lethargic, stumbling upon too many as they look similar and have slight differences in height and decoration. If limiting your pagoda hopping (locals tend to love showing off the pagodas in their towns if showing you around), make a visit to the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon and the unique temples complexes of Bagan, your absolute must-sees from the bunch.
Money in Myanmar – Currency Exchange and ATMs
You Need Brand New Dollar Bills for Myanmar
The need to have crisp, un-creased, unmarked, brand new US dollar bills for Myanmar remains. Since the vast majority of people fly into Myanmar from Bangkok, this seems to be a popular place to get hold of the bills. I changed my money at a currency exchanger called SuperRich in Silom, and the whole process took around an hour. If you have time, withdraw all your cash in Thai Baht, as using your card to get dollars means having to pay a 2.5% commission/ fee on top, compared to the 150 baht (approximately £3) standard ATM withdrawal fee.
When exchanging in hard cash, there is a small fee for every $10, but this still works out cheaper than the ATM and using your card fee.
Exchanging US Dollars to Myanmar Kyat
You can exchange your dollars into Myanmar Kyat when you get to your hotel or guesthouse, in a local bank or at the airport – the latter not always being not as good a rate as the others. Refrain from using the money exchangers on the street who try to lure you with higher rates – it’s known that they cleverly short change you (which is easy as you get a LOT of Kyat notes for minimal Dollars). Unless you are willing to count your money three times, then it’s not worth the hassle.
ATM’s in Myanmar
The stories are real – Myanmar is equipped with a sporadic scattering of ATMs. Dishing out kyat, there are ATMs at the airports, and I found a handful of ATM’s in Yangon (including at the most famous spot in town – the Shwedagon Paya) and Mandalay city centres, as well as in Nyaung U in Bagan.
However, there are ATM fees, where you are likely to be charged a small fee of around $5 for the privilege of each withdrawal.
You might find ATM’s in the smaller towns in Myanmar, but don’t leave it this late to stock up on cash, just in case. It has been known for ATMs to stop working or run out of money in more remote areas.
When to use Dollars and when to use Kyats
Typically, dollars are used for paying for your accommodation in Myanmar and some forms of transport, such as internal flights. Everything else from food, street snacks, tuk-tuks and guides are paid for in kyat.
Should you find yourself low on dollars, most locals are happy to accept kyat instead. Still, you will be paying more – while the current exchange rate is approximately 1450 kyat to the dollar, many will round your dollar up to say 1,500 kyat.
When I was travelling, the exchange rate was around 800-900 kyat to the dollar, and they rounded the conversion to 1 dollar = 1,000 kyat. So, when a room for the night was $25, they typically asked for 25,000 kyat, rather than working to an official exchange rate. I was losing a small chunk each time.
As it currently stands, ’rounding up’ with the current exchange rate means you won’t be losing too much.
Is Myanmar Expensive? Budget Travel Tips
A Myanmar trip can be a budget one. On average, I spent between $30-$40 a day in Myanmar, including the cost of my accommodation and transport. I ate street-food where I could find it or ate at local restaurants.
The average cost of a budget hotel room in Myanmar is $25 and a dorm bed around $10.
Food and drink in Myanmar can fall within a reasonable $10 per day budget. A beer will set you back $2.
Internal flights will be your most expensive purchase, with prices from $100+.
Myanmar is expensive only if you choose to travel that way. For example, if you decide to stay in top-end places and eat at costly establishments (which are typically military / government-owned) not only are you spending more, but your money is not spent wisely. See the ‘Responsible Travel’ section below.
Being aware of your money and how much you are spending will ensure that you pay the same amount here as you would in any other part of Southeast Asia.
READ MORE: How Much Does it Cost to Travel in Myanmar?
Responsible Travel in Myanmar – Know Who You are Supporting
If you are a luxury traveller wanting to stay in and dine at the top end, government-owned hotels, then you will not be travelling responsibly in Myanmar. Each to their own, but if you travel irresponsibly here, then you probably should not be coming at all.
Traveling Myanmar means contributing to the wave of significant change here. With locals given more rights to trade privately, we must support them rather than line the pockets of the corrupt and controlling system. While your guesthouses will not always be the cleanest or most comfortable, or your food the most delectable, remember one thing – local support is the greatest thing you can give during this exciting stage of development in Myanmar. For many, it will be time to embrace a new way of travelling.
I choose to eat and drink at local establishments and bought items from local markets and street vendors. Not only did I feel I was giving something to those who deserved it most, but it was also the ideal opportunity to meet and get to know the local people, which in itself forms one of the most incredible memories of travelling in Myanmar.
Responsible travel in Myanmar means putting your money straight into the hands of the local people.
Choosing Accommodation in Myanmar
Guesthouses, Hotels and Hostels
More or less every single traveller carries a Myanmar Lonely Planet; the only time I have entirely relied on it as a bible rather than a reference point. However, given the regular increase in tourism, which local businesses have capitalised on, prices have risen above the printed rates. All accommodation and dining options have been researched to provide travellers with a comprehensive list of non-government-owned options.
Hostels are not as widespread in Myanmar, although major cities such as Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay, and Kalaw now offer some options.
Accommodation in Remote Areas of Myanmar
In the more remote regions where I travelled, which were not listed anywhere, I relied on the knowledge of locals or the tuk-tuk driver who ended up taking us to the only place in town which held a ‘foreigner license’.
If you can, pair up with another traveller to reduce costs – many guesthouses offer double rooms, triples, and dorms.
How to Travel in Myanmar – Transport Options
Internal travel within Myanmar is cheap and slow but, in the long run, effective.
Bus Journeys are the Main Option
The Myanmar bus is legendary in its own right. Buses are everywhere and will be the primary mode of transport to almost any part of the country (where tourists are permitted). It is the most budget-friendly option, and I paid between 5,000 Kyat and 30,000 Kyat ($3- $20) for a single ticket.
Your guesthouse can help you book your ticket in advance, and usually with the most trusted and decent company in that area. However, they may charge an additional couple of dollars as an admin fee.
You can also take a chance, turn up, and buy your ticket at the local station. I only did this when my hostel had a better idea of schedules or called ahead and knew there would be adequate space. Since some bus stations are outside of the centre of a town or city, it doesn’t make sense to pay the price of an expensive taxi, only to have to haggle and get back again.
Some bus tickets now include a pick-up from your accommodation. Double-check if that is the case.
Bus journeys in Myanmar are incredibly long, sometimes averaging 10-12 hours.
Comfort is not a factor. Myanmar’s buses do not have toilets on board (even the ‘luxury’ offerings), and air vents pump out wildly freezing temperatures. Make the toilet stop before you get on (although once in a real emergency my travel buddy did beg the driver to stop) and bring more than one layer with you.
Get used to the Myanmar Buses. You will be using them a lot.
Night buses are not sleeper buses, even though these are the buses that bring you to your destination around 3 or 4 am. What’s more, some still play their funky local music CDs and cheesy music videos until the early hours of the morning. Pack your iPod, invest in some heavy-duty extreme earplugs or kindly ask for what was once amusing entertainment, now noise pollution, to be turned off.
Never ask a driver about the time of arrival. Due to superstitions based on a belief system of nats (spirits) that existed before Buddhism came to the fore, asking when you will arrive at a destination conjures up bad spirits and is taken seriously. The result? You won’t get an answer.
Taking a Taxi
Unless necessary, avoid taking a taxi in Myanmar since it can be a wallet-draining experience. There are no metres or set prices, and you will spend a lot of time haggling a fee rather than getting to your destination on time.
The only time you need a taxi is to and from an airport, where you have to suck up the extra budget and know you are being ripped off.
The only time a taxi can cost-effective and useful is if you hire a driver for a half or full day. We did this in Yangon to get around some main sites, and the price can average from between $20 – USD 30
However, with traffic gridlock in cities or smaller towns being compact, getting around by foot is usually the best and quickest option.
Horse and Cart
Prepare for the unexpected. When my night bus to Bagan arrived in the very early hours of the morning, my only option to get to my hotel was via horse and cart. There is still a haggling process to be had (not helpful when you are sleepy), but since this is the main form of tourist transport here, it is only natural that they are waiting for new bus arrivals.
Transport in Bagan, the traditional way.
Hard-to-Reach Places in Myanmar
Not every destination on a map of Myanmar is open for exploration.
The far northern, mountainous area of Myanmar, alongside the western Chin State and the far reaches of the southern Mon State and Tenasserim region are generally off-limits to tourists unless you have applied for a government visa in advance.
Applying for a Government Visa and Permits
Applying for a government visa in Myanmar usually has to be completed ahead of time, and can take months. It can also be costly since particular permits are not so commonplace yet. I have heard of some people applying for a government visa at the local bureau or via a tourism agency, and it was processed and granted quickly. It can often come down to being lucky or depending on the particular area of Myanmar you wish to visit.
However, a few other travellers and I managed to get all the way south to Dawei and Myeik in the far south without a permit as we heard while in Mawlamyine that it had been open for a couple of months. It took days of long, arduous travel to get from place to place but it was a pleasure to visit areas that had never seen much tourism footfall, but which too deserved a slice of the tourism dollars.
Restrictions and Curfews
The only downside was that restrictions were still enforced in each area where we were faced with a 7 pm curfew in Dawei and couldn’t go out on a boat in Myeik (which is known for its Archipelago of islands).
The restrictions mostly come down to the issue of safety for tourists, which locals have expressed is an absolute concern (for example, there is little in the way of insurance for the boats). However, our gut instinct was that we were also being watched a little.
Solo Travel vs Group Travel – Myanmar Tours
Not everyone wants to travel solo, and with Myanmar being a little more tricky to navigate and less-trodden than the typical Southeast Asia circuit of Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam, you may want to consider joining a small group tour. A small group, two-week Myanmar tour with G Adventures takes you in a loop between Mandalay and Yangon, covering all the major highlights of the country along the way. *Currently this trip is not running*
This trip includes riding local slow trains, taking scenic boat trips and embarking on a hill-tribe trek. The cost of this trip includes accommodation, some meals, and all transportation between each destination, including the internal flight.
So not only do you get to visit the very best of Myanmar, knowing that your money is being spent at local businesses and social projects, but you’ll have other travellers to enjoy it with.
Discussing Politics in Myanmar – Is it OK?
You may read that it’s important not to start political discussions while travelling in Myanmar unless they are introduced into the conversation first. While this is true, the name ‘Aung San Suu Kyi’ is on the lips of locals before you know it, and in public as well. Politics is no longer limited to highly private discussions (though the more heated ones may still be). A Burmese friend privately told me that it is OK to speak out against a situation or a person if you can back up your story. I am not sure how true this is, or if she is just a rebel.
I was told stories by Chinese and Indians who, although born in Myanmar, are unable to visit the land where their grandfathers and great-grandfathers come from. The government has made it difficult and expensive to obtain a visa/permit and a passport.
The Burmese are always eagerly awaiting more remarkable changes and wanted us to share with them what people in our country thought about Myanmar. As one of the first Myanmar travel blogs there on the ground, things were a little different back then as locals eagerly awaited a change in the form of Aung San Suu Kyi’s Democratic Party one day being elected, and her position of power being more cemented. Locals were all too keen to know what you thought and how much you knew, pointing out ‘The Lady’ and her father out on posters, book and newspapers.
However, with recent political events, the topic of Aung San Suu Kyi and her policies might once again be the subject of very sensitive discussion. Since the Rohingya Crisis, hope has faded; Aung San Suu Kyi’s respect on the world stage was stripped, and her work at resolving this crisis seen as non-existent.
This detailed article from the New Yorker provides an interesting overview of ‘What happened to Myanmar’s Human-Rights Icon?”
Learning Burmese is Helpful, Not Essential
I always stand by my word that whether you are great at picking up languages or not, the two most important words you should always learn are hello and thank you. Travelling to Myanmar is just the same and understanding these basic phrases certainly makes interaction with local Burmese people more special. Anything else you learn along the way is a bonus.
Burmese Phrases
The two most important phrases you need in Myanmar are:
Hello: Ming-gu-la-bah
Thank you: Jay-zu-de-bar-dee
Not only is it polite, but it is well received. Be prepared for most locals to giggle in response – they are not mocking you; they are just not expecting it.
Learning to Mime
While English is common in Myanmar, mainly in big cities, there will be endless amounts of situations where you will find that it’s not spoken at all. Now is your chance to bring out your hidden miming skills. My best mine, after failing to find a toilet by showing a piece of toilet paper, was to act out a squatting motion. Embarrassing as it was, it did the trick as well an inciting a few giggles from the locals. I also find wordless picture books handy in these situations too!
The Internet in Myanmar is VERY Limited
The internet in Myanmar is either non-existent or a sign proclaiming ‘wifi’ or ‘internet café’ is like stumbling upon the gold pot at the end of the rainbow and finding it empty. It will either not work or be slow. I found this more difficult, as a writer, but if you can, try to suck up the loss of fast, reliable and consistent communication with the outside world.
Negotiation, Haggling and Bartering is Not Common
In Southeast Asia, bartering is a given; a game that is often expected and enjoyed. Shopping in Myanmar will seem very different since bartering is almost unheard of. You can rarely negotiate your room rate (i.e. discount for more than one person), and I’ve had several looks of utter bewilderment in markets when I have lowered the price to start bartering. Unless the price is ridiculous, take it for what it is – you are helping out a local after all.
Good luck haggling in Myanmar!
Unusual Things About Myanmar
It’s those little cultural nuances that can make a place so fascinating, or which we could initially take offence to if we don’t know their meaning. Myanmar is no exception to such sights and encounters.
The Baffling Myanmar Time Zone
WHAT time is it in Myanmar? Why is there a 30-minute difference? Myanmar Standard Time is a little different. You see, while the rest of the world is plus or minus time ON the hour, Myanmar does it differently with half-hour time zones.
So don’t be baffled when you hear that Myanmar is 6.5 hours ahead of GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) and that the country does not also observe daylight savings time. No clocks changes here.
Don’t Be Offended When Locals Make a Kissing Noise
The kissing noise in Myanmar is in no way a derogatory sound aimed at you, but the Burmese way of calling attention. It’s fascinating, and you realise, when trying to practice yourself (yes, I did), that you can’t quite do it as loudly and precisely as them.
Dodge the Red Spit
The majority of Burmese locals chew on leaves containing a mixture of tobacco and betel nut which turns their mouth and teeth red. They are neither bleeding nor spitting out blood.
Part of this snacking process involves the regular need to spit out the juices – anywhere and everywhere – so dodge the red spit showers and don’t scour in disgust. This cultural trait emerges on all Myanmar trips. While pavements and walls are stained with it, you don’t want to be.
Any plagiarism of this Myanmar travel blog or travel any of its descriptions used on other sites and blogs without attribution is not information authorised by myself for use. Know your source.
Jean says
Hey Becky,
Did you do the Bagan Balloon ride?
The best,
Jean
Becki says
Sadly not, as I was on more of a budget then. However, I have friends who did it and had a wonderful time.
Jeannine says
Marcy: Getting sick when someone is spitting out smth that looks like blood is a completley normal human reaction and nothing that is in one’s control (just like getting anxious when having blood drawn). Some can just switch it off better than others and I couldn’t, so being in large crowds really wasn’t nice (imagine feeling sick ALL the time).
Also, it is completley alright to travel somewhere and realize that for oneself it is not the best place to be. If I had known how sick it made me I wouldn’t have gone there, I only know now- as it is the only way of knowing it. That has nothing to do with open-mindedness: I had no problem with anything else – getting sick is a bodily reaction out of my control.
Oh, and it is not just a habit, but a huge problem there – oral cavity cancer is one of the deadliest forms of cancer in Myanmar.
Cho says
I agree that betel chewing is a problem in Myanmar, even the government there acknowledges it. I myself dislike it intensely. However, if you can overlook (and overstep) this minor cultural trait – not everybody does it, Myanmar is a wonderful country and the people are one of the friendliest in the world.
Jeannine says
We came back from Myanmar two weeks ago – and wow I wish I knew how bad the betel spitting was … it made me sick to the stomach! It is the most disgusting thing and it is literally everywhere…I jst wanted to get away from the humans and out into nature…for the trekking tour to inle lake we even asked for someone who does not chew on that stuff as I just couldn’t get used to it..the smell, the looks of it…partially ruined the experience for me…
Becki says
It’s quite the thing to get used to, for sure. Such are cultural traits though – what we find untoward is normal elsewhere. Dodging it on the street is hard though.
Marcy says
Jeannine: if you are not open minded enough to accept other cultures habits, dont travel, stay in your country and your own comfort. The world doesn’t need your judgement.
David says
Thanks for sharing Becki! Many useful and practical tips for visiting Myanmar.
Agree with the safety situation as well about avoiding Rakhine state as well as land borders (more specifically areas bordering China, Laos, Thailand, Bangladesh and India).
If this helps fellow travellers, do also watch out for shoe guardian scams. E.g. you take off your shoes before entering a temple. After coming out, a stall vendor holds your shoes hostage, claiming to have looked after it while you were away and that you have to buy something from him to get it back. One way to prevent this is to bring a plastic bag along to carry your shoes in.
Becki says
Good tip, although I recommend carrying a reusable tote/cotton bags to avoid using plastic, that only ends up in landfill.
Ryan says
Thank you for this exhaustive post! Last time I was in SE Asia me and my travel partner meant to pass through Myanmar but I got extraordinarily ill in Cambodia and the setback led to us needing to cut down on our itinerary. This guide will be helpful for when I mosey on back to the area!
Jude Smith says
Hi Becki, enjoyed reading your solid advice on visiting Myanmar/Burma. Thought you might be interested in what we’re up to there social-circus-myanmar.
It’s abut empowering people living in disadvantaged communities through the teaching of circus skills. Hope you find it interesting.
Erik says
Hey Becki, thanks for the great write-up!
I’m facing now the dilemma of what cash to bring (because of a high one-off fee ATMs are out of question). Do you think arriving with EUR and changing some of it to crisp USD and most of it to Kyat is good-enough solution? Thanks!
Becki says
Take straight USD with you. No point losing value going from euro to USD to Kyat. You can request crisp USD in advance as change-stations.
KiskaBear says
This is my first international trip, and living in Alaska I’m a little intimated by the thought of leaving my continent for the first time. Thank you for touching on political aspects, as I have done some research on their political scene. I wasn’t sure if this is something they discuss with tourists or not, so thank you for throwing that out there. Also, thank you for the bit about traveling responsibly. That was something good to think about. I will be staying with a friend who is living there, but if I venture out without her while she’s at work, it’s good to remember. That is good to know about asking for arrival time, I’ll try not to do that. And I’ll write down ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’ and try to get those words down before I head out in 5 days. Thank you so much for the article!
Courtney in Alaska
Cho says
Hello Courtney,
I understand your concerns about traveling alone for the first time, and to a faraway destination at that! I live in the United States but I am a native of Myanmar and have returned there many times to visit old friends and relatives.
Do not worry, Myanmar is one of the safest countries in the world and attacks on foreigners are unheard of. It is a fledgling democracry and there is freedom of speech now, unlike in the past.
Look up Myanmar travel 2016 on YouTube and you will find a lot of positive reviews from tourists on their visits to my homeland,
Happy travels to the Golden Land!
Arthur says
Hi, we are planning to drive into Myanmar sometime in 2017 from India via More border. Besides a visa and carnet for the car, is there any other things to be done on a road trip to Myanmar ? Are permits required ? Thanks
Becki says
You may need to look into specific areas where a government permit may also be required. The tourism office will be able to advise you on all of those if you tell them where you plan to go and specifics on car hire and rules in the country,
Becki says
You may need to look into specific areas where a government permit may also be required. The tourism office will be able to advise you on all of those if you tell them where you plan to go and specifics on car hire and rules in the country.
Shenica says
Hi Becki, this post is brilliant! I am heading to Burma in January and I’m so glad I came across your site. I was really just planning to visit Shwedagon Paya and stay for a few days during my six weeks in Southeast Asia. I will for sure rethink that idea and spend more time in Barma.
Jarrred says
Thank you soo much for this informative post!!
Around September this year, a group of us from school will be heading over to Yangon for a mission trip helping out in orphanages and visiting markets and tourist areas. what would your thoughts be on using cameras and devices?? considering that we are the ‘rich western folks’ would it be appropriate carrying cameras and fashionable items??
and what would you consider being a decent amount of money to bring (in USD) for shopping and buying things??? (food, accomodation and travel is all covered)
thanks jarred
Becki says
Hi Jarred,
“Helping out in Orphanages” does more harm that good. Please see this article here: https://www.bordersofadventure.com/an-orphanage-is-not-a-tourist-attraction/. It’s not a place you can just pop into and help out. It requires a lot of research into whether it is a legitimate organisation and situation, and generally those of us who have lived in these regions, advise against it completely. It’s not a place to also go into flashing cameras in kids’ faces.
In tourist areas and general areas, that’s OK. There’s many people photographing the beautiful spots of Myanmar, which are practically everywhere you look. Ask local people before you consider taking a picture of them.
Please refer to my Myanmar costings post for further indication of budget: https://www.bordersofadventure.com/how-much-does-it-cost-to-travel-in-myanmar/
Taylor says
I’m so happy I found this. Definitely the most informative piece I’ve found about Myanmar online yet. Thank you!
Salvina Ulfindo says
Hi, for the first time I am traveling to Myanmar on April 19. We are a team of missionaries that will conduct a survey trip for our future stay in the country. The survey trip will last in five days. Two of the members of the Team will be coming from the Philippines. My question is, do we have to get a visa for staying in the country for five days? What can you suggest so we can we can make the most of our time in Myanmar. Thank you.
Becki says
Yes you do need a visa even for five days. Check ProjectVisa.com or more information on nationality entrance rules/restrictions.
My articles detail a variety of activities in Myanmar, but with five days you will be pushed for time.
Dianna says
Becki, my daughter and I are traveling from Duluth Minnesota anywhere in the world for my 60th birthday. Destination my choice. Until tonight our sight was Thailand. I have stumbled upon Myanmar and am so intrigued! It sounds safer to me. My daughter is a big foodie. Can you enlighten me a bit. I can’t seem to find information on it. Would we find it similar to Thailand?
Becki says
Myanmar is not really a foodie haven. If you are going specifically for that, you may be very disappointed.
Angus Clemence says
Hi Becki,
Fantastic read, that was really informative. I’m keen to travel somewhere once I graduate in the summer with my girlfriend and Myanmar looks like a great choice. I’m debating whether to book onto a tour or to travel ourselves. How easy is it to find places to stay and book transport? Also what would your recommended route be for a 3-4 week journey including Yangoon, Bagan and Inle Lake?
Becki says
There’s buses that connected you to everywhere and I found that each guesthouse can either book you the ticket or give you the times etc so that you know when to head to the station. Accommodations information, in relation to season is all in this article. For a 3-4 week journey it will be cheaper for you to go outside of a tour group. I spent four weeks in total in Myanmar.
Chris says
Great read Becki.
I’m finally returning to visit Myanmar after nearly 20 years away. I was born there, left at age 3 and returned at age 10 for a visit. Now I’m finally truly going to experience it.
Despite being Burmese, I know so little about the country. My girlfriend is also coming with me and she is German. The Tourist Visa rules say tourists must stay at approved hotels and guest houses. How strict do you feel this is? I expect that in Yangon at least, we’ll be staying with my relatives and so wouldn’t satisfy that requirement.
Any thoughts?
PS. Very much in favour of the style of travel you are doing and writing about – while the true party backpacker style may be fun on your first big trip somewhere, there’s so much more to it and learning about a country and its people is far a greater experience.
Becki says
Wow – I’m sue this is going to be an amazing experience for you! Can’t wait to hear your thoughts 🙂
In all honesty, I can’t see there being any problem with you staying with relatives. Tensions have eased up a bit now and restrictions are not as strong. I think the ‘approved’ system is a part of the means to ensure tourists don’t get into any issues, and I guess to tighten control on things like homestays and private business ventures. I stayed in a homestay as part of a trek, and it certainly wasn’t in any guidebook or listing!
P.s. Thank you for the kind sentiment. Glad it’s making people think differently about travel.
Cho says
Hi Chris,
You must be getting real excited at returning to your place of birth.! In my own case, I left the country in 1978 and went back to visit only after 9 years. Since then, I have been back on and off to see old friends and relatives who are still living there.,
I have always enjoyed every trip to my homeland and stayed at my relatives house often without any problems, and like Becki says the situation over there has changed quite a bit over the past few years.
Happy travels and I know you’ll have fun experiencing the new Myanmar!
Nick says
Hi Chris, don’t worry about the hotel requirements. On the Tourist Visa application you will have to put a hotel. Just look up any hotel because I don’t think they check (that’s what my friend did). If you really want to do things by the book, you can apply for a social visa instead of a tourist visa. It costs a little more and its scrutinized a bit more deeply but you should still be able to get it.
Email me with any questions ([email protected]). My wife is Burmese and I’ve been to Burma twice…I just got back a few days ago and I also went in early 2012.
Darius says
This was an incredible helpful guide.
Question:
I’m coming from Bangkok and plan to spend a few weeks in Burma. Do you think I should travel from Bangkok to Mandalay and work my way south or do the opposite coming in to Yangon and working my way north?
Thanks for the help and I’m also a journalist looking for a fixer if you have anyone you can recommend.
Thank you in advance!
Becki says
Hi Darius. You can go either way. I personally found it depended on flight prices and times in and out (booking one in and out of each).
Cho says
Chaung Tha beach is a marvellous spot to rest and relax. It is not as well known to international tourists as Ngapali but locals go there a lot. When I was there years ago I saw only one foreigner. However, I believe it’s getting crowded howadays, so you might like to make hotel reservations in advance. Chaung Tha village is about 15 minutes walk away from the beach. There was only one small grocery store there.. I hear it’s changed a lot since then.
Happy travels to the Golden Land!
Brendan says
Is it alright to ‘just-go-with-it” as far as accommodations go? Does the government check in on you during your stay? This happened to a friend in Lebanon and I wondered if a military government wouldn’t do the same.
Becki says
You can but in the busier months I suggest phoning ahead (most guesthouses let you use the phone to secure a place in the next destination). The government does not watch you, unless you are venturing into territory which requires government approval / permit. We were checked over by military on a bus while travelling far south, since it had only just opened for 20 days for visitors. We later found out we were not supposed to have been taking the buses down there and could only fly (we were flying back and found all this out at the airport when asked). It caused quite a stir, and maybe the bus ticket seller will have been tracked down. But all-in-all, it is not a place where you are viewed with suspicion and watched like a hawk. Enjoy!
Vinita says
Thanks for the fantastic tips! Going to Myanmar in just over a week and these are really useful!
Cho says
I;d like to add a few suggestions to Becki’s invaluable advice.
@Kate: Myanmar is one of the safest countries in the world.
@Ang: For day trips and/or short excursions;
1. From Mandalay – Pyin-Oo-Lwin, two hours by car. You will be enchanted with the ‘stagecoach taxis in the town, and Tudor style houses built during the colonial period. The Botanical Gardens there is one of the best I’ve seen in the world.
2. From Bagan – Taungkalat pagoda situated on top of Mount Popa;
3, From Yangon – Bago, two hours by bus. The world’s biggest reclining ;pagoda is there, or to Kyauktan across the Yangon River. The pagoda there is situated on a small island in the middle of the river.
@Catherine – As Becki said the markets in Yangon are something else. Start with Bogyoke (Scott) market. Make two trips to the Shwedagon pagoda, one during the day and again at night. Your admission fee is good for 24 hours. Take a dinner cruise on the Yangon River. Visit Sule pagoda in the center of the city. Go for ‘high tea’ at the Strand Hotel, etc. etc.
Have fun in my hometown of Yangon! I lived there for nearly half my life and although I live abroad now, Yangon and my Myanmar will always be in my heart.
Catherine says
What other markets other than Bogyoke do you recommend? Can you describe what they are like? Thanks for your feedback!
Cho says
@Catherine: Besides Bogyoke, there are many other smaller neighborhood markets situated in and around Yangon. where the locals go for their daily shopping, especially for fresh meat products and vegetables.. Most of them are right on the streets with temporary stalls and on trays laid out on mats. One of them is just a few minutes walk from Bogyoke, I think on 28th Street.
There are similar markets in the downtown district mainly located in narrow streets. If you want to venture out to the nearby suburbs (where the majority of Yangon’s population live) there is Myenigone market which is a covered market and Kamaryut market where my grandmother often went for our family’s daily needs.
In the mornings these local markets are bustling with shoppers and vendors, and you will come across a vast array of vegetables, fruits, fresh water fish, meat products and the like.. In short, you see the culture and everyday life of the people.
If you want to go for high end products and imported goods, there are several big shopping malls and grocery stores/supermarkets The biggest supermarket chain in Yangon is CityMart.
Becki says
This is where it really pays to randomly wander and seek out pockets of local life.
Nick says
Great article Becki! And excellent advice Cho! I’ve been to Burma in 2012 and I am going again this December (my wife is from Burma)..
I also highly recommend Mt. Popa, great tourist destination. Lot’s of monkeys, and lots of stairs! Obviously Mandalay Hill is awesome, I recommend both day and night. However, overall I would recommend more time in Yangon than Mandalay. I personally felt Yangon to be a bit more interesting and diverse.
Spend at least 2-3 days in Bagan! That will likely be the highlight of the trip, despite it being a tourist destination. Although it is hard to say no to all the children selling you things, but feel free to play with them. I taught one child how to throw a Frisbee which he’d never seen before.
Also, don’t be afraid to ask taxi drivers where they think is interesting….they will surprise you!
Becki says
Thanks for the additions, Nick!
Catherine says
I was wondering what places you highly recommend seeing in Yangon? As a travel writer what unique places do you recommend visiting? I appreciate your feedback!
Becki says
The best thing I ever did in Yangon was walk, with no plan. I ended up at a pink church and was invited in for lemonade and a gossip with a nun. Besides the random, immerse yourself in the markets – the food and clothing ones – ride the circle line train (post on here) and do NOT miss the Shwedagon Pagoda.
Ang says
Hi Becki,
I am from Malaysia and planning out my trip to Myanmar. As you’ve suggested in your article we need at least 2 weeks there.
Any route suggestion I should take and how many days you think I should spend on each place if let say I only have 8-10 days there?
Please kindly advice.
Thanks in advanced.
Becki says
Use Mandalay and Yangon as your start and end points, and with shorter time do not miss the key highlights – Mandalay, Inle Lake, Bagan and Yangon. Anything you can fit in between as day trips or short excursions is a bonus.
Kate says
Where is the best place in Myanmar to go that is not filled with tourists but still a relatively safe place for tourists to travel to see an authentic Myanmar? What other interesting places should I know about to plan a trip there? Thanks in advance!
Becki says
Remember, by visiting you are a tourist too. Myanmar is an authentic slice of SE Asia, and no matter what city or town you get to, you can wander and explore further than the standard tourist highlights. That stands for any part of the world.
Janice says
Hi Becki,
Thanks to you, I learn more and understand deeper about Myanmar before going there. Can’t wait…counting down my days…
I am visiting Myanmar from 3 Nov – 11 Nov. I will be going with the Yangon-Mandalay-Bagan-Inle Lake-Yangon route, probably 2 days for each place. Since my schedule is quite tight, I think I have to fly to each location.
But still I wish to experience taking the night bus from Yangon to Mandalay, would this be ok in terms of time? Is taking the night bus tiring?
Also, thanks to Cho (lovely assistant of Becki) for
Becki says
It is tiring as they are usual at ungodly hours – for example, in some destinations you may arrive at 3am! But there may be more structuyre now and in all honesty, it’s just a part of the Myanmar travel experience 🙂 Embrace it and all is well.
Janice says
“Embrace it and all is well”… I love the way you quote it…haha…
Totally agree it with you Becki!
I will surely enjoy my journey in Myanmar! 😀
Cho says
@Janice: I am glad to hear you are learning and understanding deeper about Myanmar. As the famous English poet Rudyard Kipling said, “This is Burma, quite unlike any other land.”
I have traveled extensively around southeast Asia and with the possible exception of Yangon you will find my Myanmar to be truly authentic.. The country is unique in the sense that it has kept its culture and traditions intact, unlike neighboring countries where just about everything is geared for the tourist trade.
However, this is rapidly changing as Myanmar is becoming a hot spot on the international tourist map. Visitor arrivals have increased by leaps and bounds since the country opened up a few years ago.
I know you will enjoy your trip the the Golden Land.
Cho
Erik Bueno says
Hi Becki,
Loved reading all the posts. Thank you for taking the time to inform a rookie. I am traveling (now in France) and plan to see Maynmar (November 1st) and going to do the Yangon/Bogan/Mandalay route you suggested. I will make guest reservation in Bogan and set others as I go. I think 3-4 days in each city, fly to each city.
Does that sound ok? and what about a Visa and Malaria? Any other suggestions would be great.
Thank you,
Erik
Becki says
3-4 days in each will be great – you will see a lot in that time. You will need to check online or with your doctor regarding the latest malaria warnings in the areas you will be travelling in. You will need to arrange a visa via your nearest Myanmar embassy.
JJ says
Really enjoyed reading this. Very informative for people wanting to visit this beautiful country.. I am an English teacher and this is my second year living here.. One year in Naypyidaw (strange and interesting project) and now in Myeik. Totally agree with you about being templed out, I have used the same term too….lol
Becki says
I can’t wait to get back! I actually travelled South through Myeik and some other places, and it was amazing to meet locals people who rarely, if ever, see tourists. They need it down there too! I also have so much more to see North. Myanmar is in my heart and I think of it often. I will be back 🙂
Marcy says
Hi Becki,
Great article and very informative! I cant wait to visit this country.
I have total 8/9 days there. Do you think I can make it to visit Mandalay/Amapura, Bagan and Inle Lake?
Thanks!
Becki says
Eight-nine days is a tight squeeze as travel times are long and tiring. But I am sure you can fit three places in in that time. If you are not visiting Yangon and starting in Mandalay, then absolutely.
Cho says
Hi Marcy,
I’d like to add more to Becki’s reply. If you’re flying to all those places, then you’re OK., but if you are planning to travel by bus or train, it’s going to be very tight. Your itinerary doesn’t include Yangon which is a must see in Myanmar (and my hometown too, which I’m quite proud of!) You don’t want to miss the magnificent Shwedagon pagoda in Yangon, the spectacular landmark of the city, indeed the whole of Myanmar!
Happy travels to the Golden Land!
Marcy says
Hi Becki and Cho!
@Becki: thanks for your reply!
@Cho: Actually my flight is landing in Mandalay. I do want to go to Yanggon but not enough time and the distance is much more longer. Next time I will visit the south part and the Myeik Islands 🙂
Does anyone know about how to go from
– Bagan to Inle Lake : Bus or train?
I am blocked at this stage because I cannot find any information regarding how to go from Bagan to Inle Lake by train. Seems like I need to go through Thazi, but I cant find information on how to go from Bagan to Thazi… Do you have any suggestion?
– Inle lake – Mandalay: Bus or train
Depending if I did the previous trip by train or by bus.
Is the journey landscape nice from Inle Lake to Mandalay if I take the train?
Thank you!
Marcy
Cho says
Hi again Marcy,
Bagan to Inle Lake – If you want to go by train it’s going to be tricky, and will take you much longer as you would still have to take the bus to Thazi first. Best way is by bus and get off at Nyaungshwe which is the nearest town to Inle Lake.
Inle Lake to Mandalay – Again, best to take the bus from Nyaungshwe to Mandalay. Be sure to get the VIP bus. Landscape is not as stunning as Inle Lake but still exotic as you pass through the countryside of rural Myanmar.
Pity you’re giving Yangon a miss. I am a native of Myanmar and have been to the Shwedagon pagoda countless number of times, but still mesmerized by its splendor every time I see it. Do try to visit Yangon on your next trip to my homeland.
Becki says
I second the response of my very lovely reader, now helpful assistant, Cho. Thank you! 🙂
Cho says
Becki, thanks very much for your kind compliments. Helpful assistant? That’s a very nice title, hahaha! I just want visitors to Myanmar to have a positive impression of my beautiful country, and make their travels there as smooth as possible.
By the way, I live in the United States now, but my heart will always be in my Myanmar..
And, I am so glad you had a wonderful time when you went there, and hope that you can visit again soon.
Thanks again,
Cho
Alex says
Thanks for all the great info! I will be traveling to Myanmar at the end of August (2015). I will only be visiting Yangon and Bagan, do you feel there is any real risk of Malaria in either of those locations?
I am only going for a long weekend so I hate to have to take 30 days of anti-malaria pills if not necessary.
Thanks!
Becki says
You are best checking malaria maps and following the relevant instructions on what pre-cautions to take. I always took anti-malaria medicine in Southeast Asia. Not worth the risk.
Joslyn says
Hi Becki, my partner and I are heading to Myanmar in a month. While I would LOVE to spend more time there, we have 7 weeks in Asia all-up and are planning around 10 days in Myanmar. I want to extend to 2 weeks but he’s happy with about a week – any tricks to convincing him to stay longer?? Thanks!
Becki says
Just tell him I’m placing a guarantee on him thanking me (and you) that we forced him into two weeks. Distances of travel between each place are a main factor also – 10 days hopping quickly everywhere will knock you out. Those extra four days soften that element of Myanmar’s crazy bus infrastructure. I set him a challenge of 14 days. Guarantee you will BOTH have wished it to be longer than that even 😉
Cho says
Joslyn, I am curious to know whether you managed to convince your partner to stay for two weeks in Myanmar? I’m sure Becki’s guarantee worked out well for both of you!
Cho says
I am Burmese, but have been living/retired in the US since 2011. . Thank you for your very comprehensive write-up of my beautiful country. I have been to nearly 40 different countries around the world (and lived in a few of them) but Myanmar/Burma will always be my home.
Myanmar is undoubtedly one of the most spiritual and unique tourist destinations in the world, and I wish all those visiting there, a very rich and rewarding experience.
Happy Travels to the Land of Golden Pagodas….and much much more!
Proud to be Burmese.
Thomas says
I just this morning bought my tickets for Burma (Melbourne => Singapore => Yangon). My best friend lives there and I cant wait to see him. I’ll be 16 at the time of my flight, and must say I am both ecstatic and freaked about travelling alone for my first time overseas. I am glad I have someone waiting for me on the tail end of the journey.
kat says
Hi Becky, great post – making the place quite approachable, thanks for putting this together!
My partner and I are thinking of visiting in the June/July/August period for 2-3 weeks. We are mostly interested in off the beaten path areas (understand we need to consider local permits) and wondering if you have any insight on the following
1. What will the weather be like at that time especially far south, along the river to mid North (Mandalay and east of there) and the western beaches? I read conflicting info on the amount and locality of rain. Is there anywhere you’d advise against going at that time ?
2. We are thinking about renting a scooter or motorcycle for the period to get around – any thoughts on feasibility considering roads and weather in those regions?
Many thanks, Kat
Becki says
Hi Kat,
I didn’t go in June/July/August but the weather was just about starting to turn rainy as I left towards June. Another reader went in July and was stuck indoors because of heavy rain often. You might need to do some more digging, but it appears it may not be the most ideal time.
As for motorcycles, the roads outside of the main city streets are pretty terrible. I would reconsidering if you are thinking of taking long motorcycle trips to reach destinations – the buses are bumpy and jumpy enough!
Have fun!
Pedro Negro says
Hello Becki
Only a week ago I came back from wondrous two weeks in Myanmar. I can only confrim all you wrote about the country. It is beautiful, “unlike any other” and will stay close to my heart. The peaople almost without exception friendly and helpfiul, unspoiled – as if they did not know the concept of atip, they always returned them. Shame we had to do some dollar spendings, which probably went towards the bad guys, as we were buying time, but hopefully in most cases we managed to do right and support the locals, thou it is not exactly clear, when itthis is actually happening.
Take care, I love your writing….. which I discovered thanks to Burma.
I did not want the sojourn to be over so abruptly, so I looked for whatever was related to Myanmar, and found you – to make me happy, cheers 🙂
Becki says
Thank you so much Pedro. I’m glad to hear how much you too became touched by your time in Myanmar.
Vanessa says
I’m going to Yangon at the end of the this month. Did you have any problems communicating in Myanmar? Such as ordering food… are menus in both burmese and english? Also, did you use any travel apps that you found particularly helpful?
Becki says
A lot of locals speak English and just as you would in other countries where English can be limited, miming and sign language also help. However, I never felt too much of a barrier as I would in say, China. A lot of menus are in English too. I didn’t use any particular travel apps when there. I just took everything as it comes and having a guide book (everyone has the Lonely Planet there) is a VERY useful addition. There is no point over planning or over analysing in Myanmar. Best just to go with the flow.
Ivana says
Great source of useful information, thanks Becki! I’ve found this post just on time, heading to Myanmar for three weeks in ten days. Really excited to hop on a bus/train and explore the country. Oh, and I’ll need to check the a picture book to improve some mime 🙂
Becki says
Oh wow – you lucky things! Looking forward to hearing about your journey there! I miss it so much.
jennifer jacobson says
So glad I stumbled upon this post. I am planning to take my 14 year old son to Myanmar for 3 weeks in June. We traveled through Cambodia and Vietnam last year, and many people we encountered recommended Myanmar. We enjoyed doing family home stays in Vietnam, and I wondered if this is possible in Myanmar or if there are restrictions about staying with locals.
Thanks!
Becki says
Hi Jennifer. I stayed with a family during one of my treks, so homestays certainly are possible. The best advice I can give is ask around – especially guesthouse owners who can recommend what they know in the area or in other areas on your itinerary. It’s obviously not as big a thing as in other parts of Asia, but it’s there in places.
Celia says
I’m so glad i found this post.. I got some friends from Myanmar through an international events in my country & they’re asking me to visit their country.. I’m looking for some information about traveling to Myanmar and i don’t regret I found this post.. Can I get any other information on what to prepare if i wanna go there ? My friends are in Yangon.. Is this place a good place and is it gonna be easy to go around Myanmar if i stay in Yangon? thanks 😀
Becki says
Hi Celia. I have many more posts on Myanmar if you need further inspiration on where to visit.
Connor says
Great information. I am planning a trip for May 2015, the dream is to trek deeper into the mountainous regions but it sounds like that might be difficult. Did you run into any travelers who had similar plans when you were there?
Becki says
Hi Connor. I have no idea about the mountainous regions, sorry. I didn’t actually meet anyone of my travels doing that there, plus regions were still ‘opening up’. I suggest you try forums like Lonely Planet’s Thorntree, and any Myanmar specific sites also. Good luck!
Becki says
I don’t know the rules and regulations for particular roads and routes. You will have to contact the tourism authorities and check where you may need a permit to enter. This can take months to arrange and will cost you some $$.
chris donnelly says
Hi thanks everyone for the posts here my wife and I are about to book to travel to Myanmar 17Dec – 2 Jan only time we can. I am a little concerned as all my previous travel in Asia I have just got airfares and worked it out with the locals when I got there. When you speak of booking in advance do you mean from my home country of Australia or in advance when I’m there I was thinking arrive Yangon stay a couple of nights book a flight bus whatever to leave in a few days and continue on like that. Is it possible?. I was in Burma in 1984 it was awesome and easy to travel then (for the one week you were allowed) but I’m sure so much different now.
Becki says
I booked my first accommodation in advance and then booked each one as I went along. Each guesthouse was helpful in letting you call the next etc!
MusK says
Dear Becki,
Glad to stumbled upon your advise. I’m going to Yangon next week until the 1st of Oct and found that your write up is informative. Thank you.
Mas Dino Radin says
Dear Becki,
I’m so happy to have stumbled upon your post! Myanmar is my last country to go for ASEAN (I’m from Brunei) but I’ve been put off by friends telling me how expensive it is (and getting). I had a chance to go last year but put it off for this year and was struggling to get the latest news on traveling there but here I am with all this useful information! Thank you! Unfortunately due to some issues, I can only go there for a short time between 5-7 days this early July (after the 4th) because my mom is coming in to Bangkok (where I’m currently at) and she can’t push her traveling date further 🙁
I’ve been discussing with some Burmese friends and I wanted to ask where you would recommend me to start first. I was thinking Yangon-Bagan-Mandalay but my friends suggested Yagon-Mandalay-Bagan instead. I plan to buy a one-way ticket for arrival and a one-way for departure. And I looked at some domestic flights and don’t mind (too much) paying for flights within the country only to decrease traveling time on the road. I’m heading out solo since I haven’t had much luck finding any traveling partner(s) at the hostels I’ve stayed at and I do plan to come back for a longer time in December with a friend.
Thanks in advance! 🙂
Becki says
I would suggest Yangon-Bagan-Mandalay for easier flight routes in and out. Get the buses or train up and stop somewhere on the way. Otherwise you will be doing Yangon-Mandalay-Bagan-Mandalay. Have fun!
Chan says
This is one of the very rare posts written by a tourist to Myanmar and I completely agree. No exaggeration, no insult, no lack of local knowledge. Very well done. 🙂 Just tiny spelling error to be fixed – it’s Myeik, not Mieik (my home town!)
Hope you had a great time there.
Melisa says
Hello Becki,
Thank you for your post, it is very useful! 🙂
I am planing a big trip around Asia and I am thinking to go to Myanmar to. Do you know anything about the border limitations? I’ve heard the is impossible to enter from India and Bangladesh by land and that is pretty hard to go from China as well. It seems that the best way is going from Thailand by bus (recently authorised by the Myanmar government). Do you have any information about this? Or where can I find more about this topic? I’ve been searching and I found out that the law in changing all the time but that things are much better for tourist. How did you go there? By plane?
Thank you very much!
Becki says
As far as I’m aware, land borders are still closed, with the exception of Thailand. However, Thailand has been changing the rules recently at Mae Sai border, and even before the changes and the now military coup, you could only enter for up to 15 days – this specific area of Burma having different rules. Your best best is to fly in, and given the great deals you can get with budget airlines, it’s actually a good deal…and saves any hassle. I flew into Yangon and out of Mandalay. Most people do this to ensure maximum time in the country, working from one end to the other.
Simon says
Hi Becki, your advice and tips are really great and very much appreciated. I will be taking wife and two teenage daughters in August for a month, well 29 days and plan to plan the $3 surcharge for the extra day. We did Lao last year and Cambodia the August before and all are looking forward to Burma. Can you recommend a guest house in Rangoon and how long would you suggest we stay in Rangoon before training it up to Mandalay? Also. looking at your note, I’m interested in stopping at the Peacock lodge with Burmese family in Mandalay – did you stop there / do you know anything about it?
Jessica says
Thanks so much for your informative post! I’m planning on a trip for about four weeks in December. I know it’s the high season, but it’s the only time I have available. I may be traveling solo, so I’m just wondering if I need to try to book all my rooms ahead or if I can find them as I go during this busy season. I’d like to be kind of flexible on where I travel and when, but I don’t want to pay top dollar for whatever rooms aren’t yet reserved. What do you think?
Becki says
For December, my advice will be to try and book most of it up in advance. And ring ahead when you are actually in the country to secure bookings and make them. Staff at each place you stay will be able to help you with the ones ahead 🙂
Andy says
Hi Beck,
Great reading these comments, I’m keen to get over there in around September or October though not sure what the weather will be like. As I’ve only have 2-3 weeks I’m thinking fly up norther east or west and work my way back by train or boats staying in maybe 4 spots including Mrauk U. Main appeal are visiting out of the way places where I can see some crafts that are close to rivers. Can you suggest some places?
Becki says
If you are looking for specific places with crafts you are best asking the locals. I went all the way south and people were not even insured to take us out on boats and some areas required us to get permits to travel to certain islands etc. A lot is changing in Burma quickly, but if you have very specific aims like this, then being in the country and getting wind of what’s open and who can take you from inside is a more likely bet 🙂
ian says
Hi again .thankyou will check agents out need to fly one long distance part but will be on local transport for most part ..stay safe enjoy your travels
ian says
Hi can you tell me the airline to use internally thanks
Becki says
There are a few options – Air Mandalay, Yangon Airways etc. Your best bet is to speak to a local agent when you are there to work out the cheapest deal. Be warned, they are super expensive for what is essentially a short journey. Your best bet is to use the trains and the buses, unless of course you travel to a far corner of the country and don’t want to spend over two days getting back on public transport.
ian says
Hi Beck was interesting reading your info just came across by chance I will be heading Burma way in early May will check out some of your ideas for hotel’s etc never know might rum into you somewhere along the way ..regards Ian ..
Ree c says
Hi. We are looking to go in September but only have about 5-6 days. Fly into Mandalay and out if Yangon. Bagan is a must. How would you recommend getting around? Would inle lake be doable as well? Budget will be a consideration and we are around the 50 yr of age!
Becki says
I can honestly say you will not be able to fit all of that into five days – not without skimming through towns and cities in a matter of hours, before jumping on a night bus to the next place and being constantly exhausted. You could fly internally to Yangon after your time in Mandalay and Bagan, that will save you time. Between each of the areas you can take the public buses 🙂
Brian Avery says
Great read, I’m going to Burma in Oct, and Nov I’m older are there any older people to share travel costs with on the road.
Brian
Becki says
All ages and all types of travellers – plenty of other people to share costs. You are going at a popular time of the year so have no doubt you will meet plenty of travel buddies!
Sara Flanagan says
I’m planning on visiting Burma for a month next February. Can’t wait!! Thanks for this interesting and informative post :-))
Rob Dee says
Hi Becki. Great information, thanks for sharing. Sounds like you weren’t able to get out to the islands when at Myeik. Did you hear of any other travellers that did? Or do you have any advice about how to get out there? Are there any special permissions required to fly to Myeik? Cheers and thanks again. Rob
Becki says
No local was licensed to take us out on the boat. Normally to get to the islands you have to pre-apply to the government to get a permit (not sure how much this has changed within the last year). We managed to get really far south within 10 days (and fly back to Yangon – no special permissions required to fly) although there isn’t a lot you can do down south as not many people are licensed to 1. Put tourists up in accommodations 2. Have the insurance to take you on big excursions such as this.
Again, this may have changed but it’s not easy. Things are still progressing on this front out there and it’s best to ask the locals in the nearby towns what they know. My most random adventures were from random chats and trying to see what was out there. Good luck! 🙂
Emily Joy says
Hi there, your post about Myanmar is very informative but is it safe to go there now? No more political problems though? Im planning in the near future to visit and I’m getting a bit hesitant if there are rallies or anything that’s near turmoil.
Becki says
I’ve never felt safer. Safety of tourists is a huge priority there and as much as there is still military control, it is not as prominent and where it is is in parts of the country that tourists still can access.
Doug says
Hi, just read your article and it brought back many fond memories. I travelled to Thailand, Nepal and Burma in 1988 and absolutely loved Burma. It was like stepping back in time approximately 50 years! The people were fantastic, very friendly, lots of smiling faces and we were treated as superstars in places with many locals just following us around. Yes, the travel was difficult at times, food in some places was ordinary to say the least, but I remember having one of the most delicious meals ever at a local restaurant in Rangoon. We were only allowed to stay a week at that time – nowhere near long enough but I hope to go back next year and see just how much has changed in 25 years. The temples at Pagan covered in the early morning mist were just incredible.
Nay says
Hi Becki,
As a Burmese, I’m glad to know that you as a tourist really explored and liked the local culture and people in places that you visited Myanmar and wants to see the lives of local people improved while you have enjoyed your stay there.
Hope you will visit there again.
Nay
Sam says
Thank you for your very helpful article, you write very sensitively and thoughtfully and seem to give a really we’ll ballanced review of the place. My wife and I leave for Myenmar in 1 1/2 weeks , really excited and found this information really helpful. Thank you.
Just a couple of quick questions. We stupidly booked out trip before we thought about visas, so inconveniently we have booked 5 weeks and our visa is only 4! How possible is it to cross a border the update a visa four our remaining week?
Also, do you recon it is ok for people to wear shorts that cover their knees?
Many thanks, Sam. England.
Becki says
Thank you, Sam. Glad you found it useful. There is a border into Thailand at Mae Sai. However, normally people use this border the other way around as that area of Myanmar has some different rules/some of it is off limits (the last time I heard).
But… there is an overstay charge of around $3 per day which you pay at immigration at the airport, much like how Thailand does it. It’s worth checking with your guesthouse owners out there who can advise on how long you can overstay for, as rules are changing there all the time.
Russell says
Thank you for your most informative guide. We are thinking of travelling in late Feb/early March for about 14 days. Could you suggest an itinerary? And accommodation? We are fit, love walking, but still like some comforts from home, like a shower and bed.
cheers
Russell
Becki says
This article might help you plan an itinerary and where to stay: https://www.bordersofadventure.com/how-much-does-it-cost-to-travel-in-myanmar/
Erica says
Hello! I am traveling in SE Asia at the moment and have decided to add either Nepal or Myanmar to my trip – I don’t think I have the time or money to swing both. From your experiences, which would you recommend for a 3-4 week detour? Thanks 🙂
Becki says
That’s a tough one as both countries are in my ‘Top Five’ List. If you are keen on doing some decent trekking with breathtaking scenery, I choose Nepal. You have Everest Base Camp and Annapurna to choose from, alongside some smaller treks. Kathmandu is also a truly incredible place, like going back in time. If you want to experience a country that is how Asia was back in the 90′, excitingly growing, and with a mix of beach, city and landscape, I would pick Myanmar.
Gill says
oopps i forgot to tell u the bus i hoping to get buses that are fairly comfortable. since they r over night bus
Becki says
Good luck with that. Whilst the Myanmar bus system is growing, not all are comfortable, especially as most of the roads are not exactly… brilliant. And be warned, music and karaoke can be on full volume in the bus until the early hours. It’s an adventure for sure 🙂
Gill says
HI becki,,
thanks for your information they are really helpful. just a quick question, i will be going to myanmar in mid jan and it seem like it is peak season, while i have already book my accommodations. i will be traveling mostly via night bus. i read alot about the night bus and i was wondering is it important to book them in advance via travel agent?
My plan is to only book my 1st stop Yangon to Bagan because that is the only one that i i have 1 day in that city. the rest i will have about 3 days in advance to book.
is it ok you think?
Becki says
I booked most of my night buses via the accommodation I was staying at. Either that or I got to the bus station is good time to score a ticket. You should be fine booking 3 days in advance!
Pradeep says
Very informative notes. I will be travelling this weekend and this information is just perfect to plan my trip. Additionally I could read elsewhere about the gem stones in Myanmar. I am not really fascinated in shopping but like to hear if you have any experience buying them.
Becki says
I sadly have no idea about the gemstones and it wasn’t something I really came across out there.
ciaran mcginn says
Two days ago the FOREX at the airport in Yangon had a better rate than the booths in the city for US$ but only 2 Kyats better, but thats pretty good for an airport. Also they dont seem to worry about the condition of euros, I changed 300 euro worth of folded older notes and they didnt say anything about them. Also i have paid for my hotel in Kyats and my train ticket from Yangon to Bagan in Kyats, they told me the price in dollars, I showed them Kyats and true they did just round it up to the 1000 to 1 ratio but it made it easier for me to save my US$ for later.
Sandra B says
Becki,
You write that bargaining is unheard of in Myanmar. A quick google search shows that this is not the case. In fact, bargaining appears to be an essential part of the culture. Perhaps you should consider changing the information on this website.
Becki says
I only write from my own experiences after travelling there for one month. Bargaining is not on the scale I have seen in the rest of Asia, and in many cases, it was met with a blank look and not acknowledged at all. Maybe it’s changing – have you been?
Sandra B says
I have not been there, I leave in a few days. I will go for one month. I have read on numerous travel forums that bargaining is in fact the norm in Burma. I only questioned your information because my friend was very surprised by what you said an it seems that he’s right. I believe it is critical to bargain when it’s part of the culture. I would hate to see Burma turn into a place like Vietnam where tourists are constantly overcharged for almost everything. Obviously I realize that paying a bit extra is ok considering the economic disparity, but paying the original quoted price, if bargaining is expected has negative consequences for tourism and the local people. Anyhow, I’ll see how it goes!!!
Becki says
Bargaining is indeed the norm across Asia, and very much a part of every business transaction. I lived in Asia for a long time and it was normal for me to do so. However, I am not saying my information is correct or incorrect, just that in my month there haggling was in no way a huge part of the culture. There were set prices, and haggling seemed like an alien response. Even when buying fruit, my friends couldn’t get the price down, but we were in very off the beaten track towns in the far south. Yet, even in the cities and main towns, haggling was either non existent or very difficult. Most of the time, the set prices were very good, or you could get a very little bit knocked off, other times I never made the purchase (most hardened travellers know not to purchase at the high price). The concept of ‘trade’ here is still very new, and thus, so is the concept of hard haggling. However, there is more to the country than this single point – enjoy your time in Burma 🙂
Thazin says
Thanks for your warm note and kind understanding for us Becki. I wish you could write one more note about our local foods too.
John Lewis says
Hi Becky,
Thanks for the most informative and suggestive commentary on Myanmar.I am about to leave Bhutan for Mandalay via Bankok.The news about ATMs is welcome,the lack of wi-fi is not.Will manage somehow.BTW do come to Bhutan if you have not already done so,this young tourist industry desperately needs more young tourists,there are far too many of us over 60s travelling here.
Regards
John
Becki says
Wifi can be found – it’s just not always speedy! And it forces you to quit relying on it and just get out there in the open! 🙂 I am planning on visiting Bhutan in 2014!
Dave says
Thanks Becki, just starting to put together our SEA itinerary for March/April next year, and you have moved Myanmar to the top of the list!
Patricia says
Thanks a lot. This is truly informative.
Am planning to go for 2 weeks to this newly open up country this coming Feb.
I did not book the accommodation early as I plan to just walk in to book when am there.
thanks again.
Becki says
It’s not as ‘newly’ opened up now, things are changing rapidly but it’s good for the people there! Enjoy… you should be fine walking in without a booking in February but it might be worth booking your accommodation in Mandalay and Yangon and they are always busy. Enjoy my favourite country!
Tom says
Thanks Becki for this amazingly informative article. My friends and I are flying in on Saturday, so extremely useful to have an up to date idea of what challenges and wonders we are about to encounter!
GiselleandCody says
So glad we came across your post. We are in Laos at the moment and have our flights booked to Mandalay for Oct 14th. We are super excited to travel the country before everyone else decides it is the next Thailand. Thanks for all the greats tips.
Becki says
I hope it Nnever becomes like that. It’s much too beautiful to become that. However, it’s only fair they are given a chance to grow too.
Mani says
Wow. Just today I decided that I wanted to travel to Myanmar and I remember hearing about the lack of ATM’s so I decided to google this and I stumbled upon this post. This was incredibly informative. Thank you.