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Choosing to travel to Israel and the Palestinian Territories is not only a chance to see history and nature but also to gain a clearer perspective on the conflict in the region.
“Why would anyone want to visit an aggressive, racist, right-wing country?” was a comment I saw before I decided to travel to Israel. Endless conversations ensue, wrapped in intense debate and extreme anger, followed by a discussion on how to better understand the history and see the natural landscapes and vibrant cities.
Getting to grips with the history and divided opinion is one thing, but you need to travel beyond just Israel and into the Palestinian Territories like the West Bank to better understand it. Here’s how.
October 2023 – Israel-Gaza war: Stay up to date with current developments. There is a live news feed from the BBC and live updates from CNN and AlJazeera’s feed. Any form of an uprising that ignites in the Middle East fully occupies the world media. And, undoubtedly, you shouldn’t travel to Israel and Palestine during any kind of conflict. There’s no question about that.
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Before You Travel to Israel and Palestine
The intense history of Israel and Palestine means absolutely need to be informed how things come to stand in the modern-day.
That the historical timeline of the modern construct of what is now the nation of Israel is about post-war occupation and ongoing conflicts that have led to illegal settlements and the displacement of people already within the country known as Palestine.
Hours are spent sifting through articles, books and opinions, trying to make sense of everything, and it’s a never-ending lesson.
In short (even though the history is impossible to simplify), during the British administration of ‘Mandatory Palestine’ from 1920 to 1948, various misinterpretations and conflicts surrounding issues such as Arab independence (in response to them helping to drive out the Ottoman Turks who controlled much of the region) and the support of the pro-Zionist ‘Balfour Declaration’ (calling for the reinstatement of the Jewish “national home” in Palestine in repatriation for the Jews exiled by the Ottoman Turks during World War I) led to the rise of two nationalist movements amongst the Jews and the Arabs.
The civil war led to the Arab-Israeli war in 1948, with the ceasefire a year later forming the partitions we see today – the newly formed Israel, and, wedged on either side, the Palestinian West Bank that borders Jordan (with both Jewish and Arab settlements), and the Gaza Strip in the west.
I don’t condone and nor can I fathom how and why a nation can suppress another, with brick walls, partitions, and a breach of basic human rights. I don’t condone the actions of the Israeli government, nor those of the Palestinian Governments that spark so much anger and fury amongst many. The existence of extremist groups will never aid a step toward reconciliation or the call for a Two-State system.
But there are plenty of people living there who are in no way representative of the actions of a ruling party or an era of long-standing conflict, most of whom want one thing. Peace. Some actively work together to bridge the divide.
Religion, land, occupation, and war go hand in hand, but we must take note of the communities outside of the regimes and decision-making.
This is exactly what I wanted to try to do and tell you about. Here’s an overview of what I saw in Israel and the Palestinian Territories in two weeks outside of a Jerusalem-Tel Aviv city break trip.
Where to Go in Israel
Jerusalem – One of the World’s Oldest Cities
Give Jerusalem a few days, exploring one of the oldest cities in the world sacred to Judaism, Christianity and Islam by foot and by bike, seeking out quiet back alleys, neighbourhoods and forgotten pathways. All this, alongside ancient treasures on a Holy City tour visiting Jewish (King David’s Tomb, the Western (Wailing) Wall and remains of the ancient Jewish Temple), Muslim (the site where the Prophet Mohammed ascended to heaven, the Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque) and Christian sites (the Via Dolorosa along which Christ walked to his crucifixion, the room of the last supper and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre) to understand the rich history and religious complexities of Jerusalem.
READ MORE: Travel to Jerusalem – Religious Calling and Contemporary Culture
Northern Israel – The Mountainous Terrain
From swimming in the Sea of Galilee and traversing the mountainous terrain of the region to exploring Jesus’ hometown of Nazareth, you can explore this stretch of landscape that holds great historical significance, including the Roman ruins in Caesarea and Banias Nature Reserve.
READ MORE: Why You Should Visit Nazareth – Revival Beyond Biblical Reference
To the far north is Haifa, Israel’s third-largest city, where you can marvel at the magnificent view of Galilee from Mount Precipice before heading to other northern cities, including Akko and Rosh Hanikra, the latter being known for its caves and tunnels that were once hidden for centuries.
Southern Israel – The Desert Lands
Close to the West Bank border is the Masada Fortress. Here, witness what has been dubbed as one of the world’s best sunrises before visiting the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve.
READ MORE: Things to Do in Southern Israel – The Natural Wonders of Masada, Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea
Mitzpe Ramon, a town in the Negev Desert, founded as a camp for the workers building the road to Eilat in 1951, is also the site of the 6 km wide, 450 meters deep Ramon Crater.
READ MORE: Mitzpe Ramon Crater in Israel – Into the Depths of the Negev Desert
Tel Aviv City – Israel’s Vibrant, Cosmopolitan City
In Britain, our news has always been filled with bad press about Tel Aviv; few know it as a modern and vibrant metropolis that sits along the Mediterranean coast.
READ MORE: Visiting Tel Aviv – Best Neighbourhoods
Where to Go in Palestinian Territories
The West Bank – Culture and Landscape
We all hear about the West Bank, but rarely do we get an insight into the culture and history of the region. In this region, you can visit:
- The key historical spots of Bethlehem, Jericho, Taybeh and Ramallah.
- The Samaritan village at Mount Geriszim and learn more about the Samaritan people whose history dates back to the Roman era.
- The Balata refugee camp and neighbouring old cities of Nablus and Sebastia are full of ancient sites of worship, yet are prime destinations to gain insight into the Palestinian refugee issue in the area.
- The Dead Sea, to float in salt waters 400 metres below sea level.
The West Bank – History and Conflict From Both Sides
On the ‘Dual Narrative Tour’ in Hebron, this is your chance to explore both perspectives on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict in a place that is one of the four holy cities in Judaism and a sacred place in Islam. I spent the morning in ‘H2’ – the Jewish ‘settlers’ area and the largest city in the West Bank – and the afternoon in ‘H1’, the Palestinian area.
READ MORE: Visiting Hebron in the West Bank – The Divided City of Palestine
I worked in partnership with Tourist Israel and Abraham Tours, who planned an itinerary based on personal interests as well as what will work best with the ethics of this website. Abraham Hostels kindly supported my stay in Jerusalem and facilitated my accommodation elsewhere. All opinions remain my own.
Kara Brandt says
I really want to visit Israel for so many reasons. And reading your travel post just makes me so eager to go there. Do you have any idea what time of the year is best to visit Israel? Thanks for sharing.
Becki says
I’m glad to hear that you want to visit!
I’ve regularly heard that Spring time is lovely – April and May and early June. It’s chilly now in November (although crisp, it’s still lovely to see everything) but a the months before this were warmer: September – early November. I’ve been told that the hight of summer can be very uncomfortable with the intense heat.
Marysia says
Becki it is great to hear that you are visiting Israel, it is very upsetting that people still would say and think this kind of generalizations and fake facts, I believe that one can’t really have an opinion about the country they never visited.
I travel 5-6 times a year to Israel, Tel Aviv is one of my favorite cities in the world! If you need any tips, about any small villages or some amazing restaurants just email me 🙂 Have a great trip Girl!
Becki says
It’s such a difficult situation to understand and explain. It’s not black and white as everyone here says. I also have a (non Jewish) friend currently undertaking Middle Eastern studies and the history is fascinating and sheds a LOT of light on what’s happened/happening here. Sadly, our media doesn’t portray anything other than what Israel does negatively, despite there being a lot more going on 🙁 However, aside from all of that, there is no much beauty, history and incredible landscape…that belongs to all religions… and is there for all of us to explore. It sounds as if you adore it here. Do you have Jewish background or do you just love it anyway!? 🙂
Jessica Wray says
I’d love to visit Israel and I’m sure it’ll not only be fascinating but educating. The amount of times I’d tried to research and wrap my head around what is going on over there is embarrassing. In the U.S. we get news stories all the time, but in college I started to question them all and wanted to do my own research. After all that independent research, I still feel like I can’t explain the situation to someone who is unaware!
Hope you have an amazing time and I look forward to reading about it!
Becki says
I’m hoping being there answers all of my questions. I will let you know if it does. It is VERY difficult to understand, I hear you there!
Brenna says
I really respect your decisions for going, Becki, and I think you’re going with a very clear and very informed mind. Israel is a country that is very special for me – my sister lives in Tel Aviv, and as I am very close to her boyfriend and his family there, it feels like something of a second home – and I really support your words here. I’m really eager to read about your time in Israel.
I didn’t see it in your itinerary but I highly recommend the Yad Vashem in Jerusalem, the Holocaust History museum. Also, if you need anything – any tips or perhaps just a few people to go out with in Tel Aviv, please get in touch! My sister’s boyfriend’s brother (phew) owns one of the best bars in the city. I wrote an article about my favourite restaurants in TA so I can send that through, too. Have fun!
Becki says
I think you can only go there with an informed mind and a balanced view, open to hearing both sides. Thank you for your hints and tips. I will check your TA article 🙂
Tom says
Ahh, Israel…what to say. I’ve never been, and it’s not a country that I’d want to go to just yet – I’d love to visit Lebanon, and Iran keeps popping into my mind, but neither country will let you in with an Israeli stamp in your passport. Not to say I wouldn’t like to go, though – I’ve only heard good things about Tel Aviv from people I know who’ve gone, and Israeli men….swoon.
It’ll be interesting to read about your experiences in the West Bank. Personally, I think the Israeli government are handling the situation horribly and playing the victim, and the racism in the country is alarming, but I won’t say more than that. As for Haifa, I don’t remember reading about it, so that’ll be another interesting one, too. Hope you have a great time!
Brenna says
Tom – just FYI – Israel no longer stamps passports. Immigration will give you a card with a stamp on it which you can remove from your passport as soon as you leave the country.
Becki says
I think the media, personally, hasn’t been the best at portraying the situation in a balanced sense. I want to go and work it out for myself and am too looking forward to gaining perspective from the West Bank. This could be a HUGE debate. Which in itself is interesting.
I will, of course, keep you posted!
Marysia says
Tom I have got to Lebanon with an Israeli stamp back in 2009! 🙂 Iran is amazing I have just returned… and you shouldn’t be worried about Israeli stamp, from January this year they give you a separated piece of paper so no actual prove that you have visited country, Israel is aware to difficult it was for some tourist and decided to act upon it so now you can go 🙂
Tom situation in West Bank is not as bad as in Gaza… those are two completely different approaches. I have been in West Bank many times, it is safe and very nice for visitors.
Haifa is very beautiful, especially beaches and the garden, but there is many great places around….Becki do not miss Acre!
Becki says
I agree. Gaza and the West Bank are completely different in both how they are occupied and who can go there. I will post a picture of the Israel ‘non stamp’ so everyone can see it’s perfectly fine 🙂