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Choosing to travel to Israel and Palestinian Territories is not only a chance to see history and nature but gain a clearer perspective on the conflict in the region.
“Why would anyone want to visit an aggressive, racist, right-wing country?” was a comment I saw before I decided to travel to Israel. I’ve lost count of the number of conversations I’ve had about this country that has led to intense debate and extreme anger, yet followed by the notion that it would be an interesting place to visit because of its rich and ancient history, incredible landscapes and vibrant cities.
Getting to grips with the history and divided opinion is one thing, but you need to travel beyond just Israel and into the Palestinian Territories like the West Bank in order to better understand it. Here’s how.
- Before You Travel to Israel and Palestine
- Where to Go in Israel
- Where to Go in Palestinian Territories
- Why Visit Israel?
Before You Travel to Israel and Palestine
The history of Israel and Palestine is complex to the point where you absolutely need to be informed how things come to stand today.
That the history of the modern construct of what is now the nation of Israel is about post-war occupation and ongoing conflicts that have led to illegal settlements and the displacement of people already within the country known as Palestine.
I’ve lost hours sifting through articles trying to make sense of it all, and it’s a never-ending lesson.
In short (even though the history is impossible to simplify) is that during the British administration of ‘Mandatory Palestine’ from 1920 to 1948, various misinterpretations and conflicts surrounding issues such as Arab independence (in response to them helping to drive out the Ottoman Turks who controlled much of the region) and the support of the pro-Zionist ‘Balfour Declaration’ (calling for the reinstatement of the Jewish “national home” in Palestine in repatriation for the Jews exiled by the Ottoman Turks during World War I) led to the rise of two nationalist movements – the Jews and the Arabs.
The civil war led to the Arab-Israeli war in 1948, with the ceasefire a year later forming the partitions we see today – the newly formed Israel, the West Bank that borders Jordan (with both Jewish and Arab settlements) and the Palestine Government controlled Gaza Strip in the west.
I don’t condone and nor can I fathom how and why a nation can suppress another, with brick walls, partitions and a breach of basic human rights. I don’t condone the actions of the Israeli government, nor those of the Palestinian Government (fighting violence with violence) that spark so much anger and fury amongst many. The existence of extremist groups will never aid a step towards reconciliation or the call for a Two-State system.
But think of the majority of the people living there – the people who are in no way representative of the actions of a ruling party or of an era of long-standing conflict, the majority of whom want one thing. Peace. Some, who actively work together to bridge the divide.
Religion, land, occupation and war go hand in hand, but we must take note of the communities outside of the regimes and decision-making.
READ MORE: Is It Safe to Visit Israel and The West Bank During Conflict?
As someone said to me: “I hope you experience an Israel that isn’t so rough and full of hate as portrayed by media all around the world.”
This is exactly what I want to do and tell you about. Especially after travelling around Israel working with Tourist Israel and Abraham Tours – a combined offering in the region that caters for the independent traveller looking to dig deeper. I also liked that their tours in Israel and the West Bank are designed and executed without bias, so that you can formulate your own opinions.
Here’s an overview of what I saw in Israel in two weeks, and the ground you too can cover with ample time outside of a Jerusalem-Tel Aviv city break trip.
Where to Go in Israel
Jerusalem – One of the World’s Oldest Cities
I was based in Jerusalem for a few days, exploring one of the oldest cities in the world sacred to Judaism, Christianity and Islam by foot and by bike, seeking out quiet back alleys, neighbourhoods and forgotten pathways. All this, alongside ancient treasures on a Holy City tour visiting Jewish (King David’s Tomb, the Western (Wailing) Wall and remains of the ancient Jewish Temple), Muslim (the site where the Prophet Mohammed ascended to heaven, the Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque) and Christian sites (the Via Dolorosa along which Christ walked to his crucifixion, the room of the last supper and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre) in order to understand the rich history and religious complexities of Jerusalem.
READ MORE: Travel to Jerusalem – A City of Both Religious Calling and Contemporary Culture
Northern Israel – The Mountainous Terrain
From swimming in the Sea of Galilee, traversing the mountainous terrain of the region to exploring Jesus’ hometown of Nazareth, you can explore this stunning natural landscape with great historical significance. Also, make sure to find time to visit the Roman ruins in Caesarea and Banias Nature Reserve.
READ MORE: Why There’s More to The Old City of Nazareth Than Just Biblical Reference
To the far north is Haifa, Israel’s third-largest city where you can marvel at the magnificent view of Galilee from Mount Precipice before heading to other northern cities including Akko and Rosh Hanikra, the latter being known for its caves and tunnels that were once hidden for centuries.
Southern Israel – The Desert Lands
Close to the West Bank border, I visited the Masada Fortress, to witness what has been dubbed as one of the world’s best sunrise before visiting the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve.
READ MORE: Things to Do in Southern Israel – The Natural Wonders of Masada, Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea
Mitzpe Ramon, a town in the Negev Desert, founded as a camp for the workers building the road to Eilat in 1951, is also the site of the 6 km wide, 450 meters deep Ramon Crater.
READ MORE: Hiking in Israel – Mitzpe Ramon and the Revival of the Negev Desert
Tel Aviv City – Israel’s Vibrant, Cosmopolitan City
In Britain, our news has always been filled with bad press about Tel Aviv and few know of it as a thriving cosmopolitan city. As a city lover, what better way to end my time in Israel than in this young, arty and vibrant metropolis that sits along the Mediterranean coast.
READ MORE: Visiting Tel Aviv – My Four Favourite Neighbourhoods In Israel’s Second Largest City
Where to Go in Palestinian Territories
The West Bank – Culture and Landscape
We all hear about the West Bank, but rarely do we get an insight into the culture and history of the region. In this region you can visit:
- The key historical spots of Bethlehem, Jericho, Taybeh and Ramallah.
- The Samaritan village at Mount Geriszim and learn more about the Samaritan people whose history dates back to the Roman era.
- The Balata refugee camp and the close-by old cities of Nablus and Sebastia are full of rich history and ancient sites of worship, yet are prime destinations to gain insight into the complex Palestinian refugee issue in the area.
- The Dead Sea to float in the salt waters, 400 metres below sea level.
The West Bank – History and Conflict From Both Sides
On what is called the ‘Dual Narrative Tour’ in Hebron, this is your chance to explore both perspectives on the Israeli-Palestinian conflict in a place that is one of the four holy cities in Judaism and a sacred place in Islam. I spent the morning in ‘H2’ – the Jewish ‘settlers’ area and the largest city in the West Bank – and the afternoon in ‘H1’, the Palestinian area.
READ MORE: Visiting Hebron in the West Bank – The Divided City of Palestine
Why Visit Israel?
Travel to Israel and the West Bank and see how independent travel in the region is safe, accessible and a means from which to gain a new perspective on a country negatively blasted by our media.
I worked in partnership with Tourist Israel and Abraham Tours, who planned an itinerary based on personal interests as well as what will work best with the ethics of this website. Abraham Hostels kindly supported my stay in Jerusalem and facilitated my accommodation elsewhere.
I did not visit Israel with a political agenda and nor did the parties I worked with operate with one. All opinions will remain my own.
I’ve always wanted to see israel and think it would be an incredible backpacking destination. I’ve met and gotten to know several israelis in my time, all of whom were kind, funny, welcoming people and jerusalem has always been the stuff of dreams to me. hopefully someday i can get there and experience it for myself!
as for americans getting on their high horses about israel being an “aggressive, racist, right-wing country”: there is no country more aggressive, racist and right-wing than america itself and while the israeli government’s actions cannot be condoned, it would be wise for america to stay out of it and not be the pot calling the kettle black.
I don’t think it’s quite as complicated as made out. The media have gone out of their way to shape the whole thing as a geo-political conflict but sooner or later, we’ll all have to address the elephant in the room…
I’m no expert but basically, the Jews have this book. It says that the creator of the universe promised them a piece of land along the Gaza Strip, West Bank and what is now known as (once again?) Israel.
Trouble is, the Jews either left (or were forced out of) their promised land. Sometime later, as you might expect, the Arab tribes grew and prospered, ensuring that the once Jewish promised land came to be occupied by the predominantly Muslim, but also Christian Arabs (each with their own book, simultaneously affirming and refuting content of the first).
Widely believed a miracle in and of itself, this third instalment (the Muslim book) is also claimed to be the final and unalterable word of the same divine creator.
Unfortunately for the Jews (and everybody else) the third and final draft stipulates, with the aid of divine mandate, that neither the Jews, nor Christians, may ever live in this region unless they are adequately subjugated by the Muslim population.
So when the Jews returned to this piece of land several thousand years later, they were somewhat dismayed when the Christian and Arab residents invoked the ancient law of ‘finders-keepers’. The Jewish people declared the ancient law of ‘I was here first’ (and brought lots of non-Arab Christian friends to back them up). In much the same way, the Muslim and Christian Arabs became rather annoyed when they were themselves forced from said land.
As time went on, more and more Jews arrived at/returned to the promised land and as a result, more and more Arabs found themselves displaced..
Israel seems like such an interesting place to visit. Thank you for sharing your trip plans. Hope you enjoy yourself.
Hi, I am new to your blog and this is the first post I read. I myself am traveling to Israel this summer as part of a volunteer group and I have gotten some negative comments from the people around me. I hope to prove to them that the media is not always an accurate description of day to day life in a place. Violence, sadly, occurs daily everywhere in the world and I probably have more of a chance getting mugged in an American City than I do being harmed in Israel. I have traveled a few places by myself and I have to say that I felt safer alone, walking along the streets of unfamiliar countries than I do driving through some major North American cities. Thank you for this post and your others on Israel, they have been very informative.
Backpacker Becki says
Hi Kayla. I’m glad to hear you too are travelling here with an open mind. Where will you be volunteering? I’m looking into volunteering posts in Hebron. The media will never be accurate and sensationalism accounts for a lost of people’s narrow-minded views. You will see what right and wrong here for yourself and go back and tell others. I never once felt unsafe.
I think it is great that you are touring Israel. It has been on my list for so many years, and I was scheduled to be there in November, but cancelled, not out of political beliefs, but just because I was too tired and could not handle planning a trip to such a complex historical country at the time. I don’t think I regret my decision, I am pretty sure I will go soon, but I am excited to follow you on this adventure.
Backpacker Becki says
It’s certainly not the place to be if you are too tired and exhausted from travelling, so I can see why you let it go at that time. If you have a vested interest in what is happening here, it’s mind blowing. Also, it’s important to understand the history and the current political climate in order to fully get to grips with the country as a whole (despite its magnificent landscape). I hope it’s back on your shortlist soon 🙂