Athens is the one city on this blog that has more articles attributed to it than any other. I spent a long time here in 2014 getting to know the city and becoming a staunch defender of it. It is misunderstood, in that people cite initial disappointment in finding a city whose grittiness and edginess doesn’t live up to the expectation of a city entirely coated in classical Greek architecture. And with Greece branded by its economic crisis, Athens remains pivotal to its recovery and with this is home to a start-up generation and artistic regeneration – a space that is changing, thriving and carving its mark as an emerging European hotspot.
It’s worthy of more than a 24-hour stint, a two-day break and a quick-fix Top 10 Things to Do List. So since much of my daily life and weekend escapades revolve around Greece’s mighty Capital, I’ve pulled together an ultimate guide to Athens – a checklist of what to see, what to do, how to get around and… how to make the most of the locals who are happy to impart their knowledge so that you can get the most out of your stay here.
This will always be updated as I try out new activities and come across new ventures, eateries and city quirks that take time to uncover, so do keep checking back for regular updates…
Guide to Athens – Getting There and Away
While it’s sometimes necessary budget wise to travel via Europe’s budget airlines, I’ve also flown to and from the UK and within Greece with its national carrier, Aegean Airlines. Price wise, Aegean is a little more expensive than the budget airlines you love to hate, but you pay for comfort and an overall (much) better service.
Internal flights from Athens to Thessaloniki and to nearby islands such as Skyros and Santorini, start from around €29 each way, which beats hours on a ferry for a similar price.
Aegean also gives you sweets and cookies on board, so it makes it hard not to like them.
To and From the Airport to Athens City Centre
The connection to the Metro is wellsignposted at the airport and costs €10 (a special airport-travel ticket is required). If you are a curious soul like me you can people watch on the carriage and stare out the window for over 15 stops – it’s the same line (number 3) all the way to the Monastiraki stop.
A taxi to and from the airport to the centre of Athens is €35, which is a handy cost to split if you are sharing, carrying lots of luggage, arriving late at night or are averse to taking metros.
If you want a taxi journey that’s a bit more insightful and helpful, you can book a ride with a local with Welcome Pickups. It’s the same cost as a standard taxi, but with an Athenian touch – ask questions, get recommendations and make an instant buddy in the city (all drivers are verified). You can download the app here, which makes finding and contacting your driver a little easier.
For a longer and more city-view journey, the X95 bus takes you all the way to Syntagma Square for €6. The bus stop is right outside the arrivals hall – follow the signs.
Guide to Athens – Getting Around the City
I will just get this out in the open now – I’m a metro geek and any city that has an underground transport system gets my vote and I always have to try it out. When I first came to Athens I never once rode the metro, which is just ridiculous and it actually pained me (I really am a geek). Now, it’s not an extensive network like London, Berlin or Tokyo, but it doesn’t need to be. Athens has three lines connecting you the far reaches of the city, including the airport at one end and the coastal areas and port of Piraeus (for island ferry connections) at the other. It’s one of the cleanest, efficient and easy to use metros I’ve ever used and it’s very cheap – at €1.40 for a single fare, €10 for a five-day unlimited pass and €30 for a month.
The transport network has recently launched an app allowing you to load your phone with pre-paid tickets, saving on paper tickets, and which you activate as and when you need.
Much like every other city I have travelled in, Athens is not devoid of game-playing, rip-off drivers. Most of the time, I have had no issues, and always insist on the use of the metre. However, the introduction of Taxi Beat (essentially the city’s version of Uber) has been very reliable, great value for money and I’ve always felt safe. Some of my best conversations have come from these drivers, too – some real characters with great stories to tell.
Guide to Athens – Where to Stay
City Circus has been the hostel most recommended to me by traveller friends. A four-story 20th century mansion turned boutique hostel in the funky Psirri neighbourhood; it’s known for it’s alternative vibe and great views of the city from its balconies and rooftop hangouts. The Hostel Girl blog has an extensive review of it here.
I stayed in the Alexandros Hotel, which is located on a quieter side street right next to all the action of Mavilli Square. For an elegant hotel so centrally located (without being right in the touristic hub), it’s great value for money with spacious rooms starting from €70 (including a large breakfast buffet). It’s also only a five minute walk to the metro station, which is one of the handiest additions for travel here.
I love the Grecotel Pallas Athena hotel not just because I stayed there on my very first visit to Athens with a fantastic group of friends, because it’s bold and artistic. This art-boutique hotel in the very centre of the city (close to the Monastiraki and Acropolis metro stations), is awash with bold colour, glamorous design features from the flooring patterns to the decor, funky furniture and rooms that each come with their own distinct artistic flair – like wall paintings of smurfs, spiderman, forests and volcanos. It’s no wonder it has become a popular setting for fashion shoots and art exhibits. Prices start from €110.
Room With a Classical View
The Athens Gate Hotel is easy to pass by from the outside, shrouded by the traffic of bustling Syngrou Road, but the appeal of the mid-range budget Athens Gate Hotel lies in the concealed panoramic views of the some of the city’s most-loved ancient sites. This alone is worthy of a little extra spend.
Located directly opposite the grounds of the Temple of Olympian Zeus, you could say that this hotel is one of the most ideally located in order to kick start your exploration of the classical highlights that Athens is most known for. Pick one of the rooms with a balcony view of Hadrian’s Arch and the gleaming temple columns, and awaken to the golden hues of the city that all visitors chase.
This view is only beaten by the breakfast spread on the 8th floor – a sweeping canvas that starts with Filopappou Hill, before reaching the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill, accompanied by a great range of continental morning treats. Whether for dinner or a glass of wine in the lounge area, be sure to head back up here in the evening to see the city’s ancient hilltops glow at sundown. The staff are very accommodating to those constantly wandering the long stretch of glass for pictures and lingering on the outdoor terrace.
Athens Gate is a two-minute walk to the start of the Grand Promenade (Dionysiou Aeropagitou and Apostolou Pavlou streets), which connects all major sites and which leads into old Plaka, and a 10 minute walk to Syntagma Square where you can begin your exploration of the modern face of the city. This makes it a great choice for the first-time visitor to Greece’s capital. Prices start from €95.
For those looking for something more homely, open-plan and with more self-catering facilities than a hotel room, check out Athens Backpackers and Studios. I actually lived here for a month while looking for my rental apartment, and there are a few options to choose from whether you are solo or with the family – the largest studios have enough space for six people.
Not only is it minutes from the Acropolis metro, the main historical sites, and the old neighbourhood of Plaka, it’s part of a wider hostel set-up (which is just around the corner) so you have a bar and a cafe, laundry facilities and a run of free weekly events where you can meet other travellers. Prices start from around €55.
Live With Locals
One of the ways I got to know different neighbourhoods and meet Athenians was by using Airbnb, where I could rent a spare room for around 20 Euros a night. Each time I would deliberately pick a new area, since the people you stay with give great local recommendations and tips, or invite you out with their friends.
By using this link you can also receive £17 / $26 credit to use towards your first AirBnB booking through me.
Great For Group Rentals
Towards the end of the summer, I lived with three girlfriends in a shared apartment right on Athens’ main shopping street, Ermou. I’ve always used FlipKey as my group rental resource, especially in capital cities (you can read about my London rental review here). A part of TripAdvisor, I find more choice (FlipKey covers over 11,000 cities worldwide compared to the 10-50 cities covered on other sites), a larger community of travellers and a larger pool of honest feedback.
Our large, four bedroom apartment cost around £1,000 for the entire week, averaging out at £35 a night each – a centrally-located apartment for the same price as a night in a hotel. This particular apartment is also minutes from Platia Agia Irini – one of the most lively bar and restaurant ‘squares’ in Athens.
Guide to Athens – Best Things To Do
It would be all to easy to list the classic sites, but they are the must-sees easily found in all guide books and there is no way you are going to miss the Acropolis, it’s stunning modern museum and the surrounding archeological areas. I still take pictures of everything and I’ve seen it dozens of times!
Living here now, this list will constantly get updated, and will best be served by individual posts, but my tops pick include…
Street Art in Athens – The Modern Voice of the City
Athens is said to have the largest collection of city street art in the world, and here it is nearly everywhere you look, emerging in the early 1990’s as a social-political voice. And while some unsightly ‘tagging’ graffiti dons some spaces, there’s some spectacular artwork to be found, especially within the Exarchia, Monastiraki and Psirri neighbourhoods.
During my first visit to Athens, I took a tour with local street artist, Manolis who runs various street art walking tours. There’s a lot to learn about the Greek street art scene and being introduced to the key art works and learning the stories behind them is a good start to understanding the modern face of the city. You can read about my experience here.
The Athens Riviera – Live the Island Life
For those who don’t have the time to venture out to the famous Greek islands, there is still the chance to live the island life, without boarding a ferry. The 30-mile stretch of scenic coastline along the Saronic Gulf, known as the ‘Athens Riviera’, is just 25 minutes away from the centre of the city. Think sea view restaurants, coastal walks and a selection of beaches and hideouts.
Eat Your Way Through Athens – Indulge in Traditional Greek Eats
Now, I’m no expert foodie, but travelling has opened my eyes to many cuisines, flavours (I’m obsessed with chilli after living in Asia for 15 months) and traditional styles of cooking I’ve come to really enjoy and appreciate.
In Greece, it’s about fresh and simple ingredients that make the most delicious of dishes. I never even realised how good salad could taste until I tried 10 different salads here. Yes, salads. Who even thought? Then there’s just so much feta cheese, yogurt and honey, grilled meats, and traditional favourites such as mousakka and souvlaki. And that’s before you then get onto regional dishes and sweet treats such as the loukoumades (Greek doughnuts) and baklava. I’ve never been this excited about eating.
With more Tavernas, historical kitchens and food stores than you can even keep up with, it’s hard to know where to sample the best of the best, so I turned to global food experts, Culinary Backstreets, for a tour around Athen’s much loved eateries and, as the name suggests, its best kept secrets.
The local guide, Carolina is so passionate that she would make even the least discerning of foodies fall in love with the Greek cuisine. The morning started with a breakfast coffee and sweet treats at one of the oldest dairy shops in Greece, that once used to be based at the port but due to being bombed during the war, relocated to the centre, before learning about the production of feta at a family run cheese shop that’s been around since 1916. That was before trying cold cuts from the Armenian restaurants and stores (many Armenians came to Greece during the tragic genocide) and sampling one of the city’s best souvlaki at a third generation family-run stand, established in 1950 and currently run by the original owner’s grandson. And if that wasn’t enough, you also get to sample olives and meats at the frenetic, but fun on the senses, fish-market and sweet honey and cinnamon laden loukoumades doughnuts at one of the oldest local favourites in town.
I sadly am not allowed to list the exact places, but it’s all the more reason to join this tour and indulge in places only the locals know of. This wasn’t just about sampling Greek food, but about learning the stories behind tradition and family business, alongside the cultures behind particular dishes here. Along the way you’ll also get to learn pockets of history too, so be prepared to leave with a full belly and a new layer of understanding of the city.
Athens City Walking Tours
I’ve probably engaged in walking tours in nearly every city I’ve visited, alongside my own general wanderings once I have my bearings.
Walking tours with local experts always give me a good sense of navigation and knowledge beyond the guidebooks, and I’ve worked with Athens Insiders in particular on many occasions – from orientation walks, to an afternoon filled with wine tasting, alongside a tailor made neighbourhood tour around Kolonaki and Exarchia. You can customise tours based offers your interests, such as food, history, photography or even something specific like yoga or choose from the already extensive portfolio. Natalie, Anthia and Alex are a wonderful and dedicated team of people who love their city, and I can’t recommend them enough.
Mentioned before in the context of street art tours, Dopios (which means ‘local’ in Greek) connects travellers with locals, so you have a truly personalised one-on-one travel experience, while locals get to make an extra income while showing off their city. You can go ride motorcycles, be a beekeeper for the day, go mountain trekking, have dinner cooked for you or simply choose from a whole host of themed city walks.
For those wanting to randomly wander, check out my guide to neighbourhood exploration here.
- Drink Greek Wine in Style – The Growing Wine Bar Scene
- How to See Three islands in One Day
- Alternative Tours of Athens – Bike, Scooter and Segway
- Markets and Local Handicrafts
Athens Inspiration and Further Information
A comprehensive resource for further information on travel in Athens and throughout Greece, you can use its iGreece facility to plan your travels in and around the country.
The official site for city of Athens with event listings, alongside comprehensive travel and accommodation guides. You can also apply online for a “This is My Athens” personal ‘greeter’ to show you around town.
Athens on Instagram
I get a lot of daily inspiration and tips from locals who post on Instagram. In particular I follow the #igers_Athens hashtag for some alternative finds and urban insights.